How We Dress Essay Example
How We Dress Essay Example

How We Dress Essay Example

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  • Pages: 14 (3799 words)
  • Published: December 5, 2017
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This article examines the impact of television commercials on clothing in India, specifically focusing on the cultural fusion of Indian and western styles. The article highlights that the influence of television commercials varies depending on factors such as gender, age, class, and urban or rural context. The research for this study was conducted over a ten-year period through in-depth ethnography in various regions of India, including the North East, Delhi, Bombay, and Bangers. The ethnography involved living with Indian families for extended periods and utilized research methods such as questionnaires, interviews, and focus groups. It is evident that television commercials are significantly influencing Indian society, as seen through changes in fashion and attitudes. One villager, Shake from Militia village, acknowledges the impact of television commercials on rural culture.

In the past,

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people used to live differently. However, with the influence of programmers and advertisements, people have changed their attitudes, dress, hairstyles, and overall outlook. One aspect of these changes is the blending of Indian and western clothing styles, which I refer to as a hybrid. Young suggests that the term hybrid was initially associated with colonial powers but has now become a topic of debate. He explains that an organic hybrid implies a blend and fusion of different elements into a new language and worldview. Hirsch and Shepherd define an organic hybrid as a fusion that conflicts with intentional hybrids. According to Bah, hybrid signifies the moment when colonial authority discourse loses control and becomes receptive to the language of others, ultimately reversing structures of domination. Hybrid operates in two simultaneous ways - through fusion or mixing and through resistance or subversion. It connects

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the past to contemporary culture. Therefore, I use the term hybrid to highlight the tensions and contradictions between self and other in contemporary Indian culture. Hybrid is not synonymous with passivity, stagnation, or staticity; rather, it represents resistance, subversion, and dynamism while incorporating elements from other cultures with historical colonial ties. Alongside hybrid, I also utilize the term traditional.

This is used in connection with whatever people perceived to be their sense of cultural history, i.e., whatever they termed as traditional. For example, Sunnis, a middle-class Indian who lived in Rancho town, noted, "We are very traditional in this family...Because kids watch television, they are not interested in religion as people here pray from a young age. They are only interested in the west these days and they are no longer interested in traditional things." He saw the west as being set in opposition to triathlons, which he perceived as consisting of pre-excellent cultural elements.

The term tradition actually connected him to a sense of history (Warded 76), even though traditions themselves have never remained statically existing, unchanging entities in time or space. Television in India in the asses, the Indian government began to speculate as to whether television could be used to improve education and literacy throughout the country. This led to rural areas being exposed to satellite television for education purposes (Nina 77, McMahon and Luther 5, Bath 20). This proved to be successful, and the infrastructure was developed to support the expansion of television coverage (McDowell).

Color televisions were introduced in the asses (ibid), and ownership grew (Sarnia 10) and has continued to rise. Satellite Television Asia Region owned by Rupert Morocco

began operating in 1993.

Morocco purchased the majority share of Zee television, a Hindi satellite channel, which has posed strong competition for the state-owned Doorman's. As a result, Doorman's has shifted its focus from education to profit-oriented advertising and entertainment. It is well-known that television is prevalent throughout India, even in slums and villages. Demand for television is so high that employees pressure management to install televisions. People in slums and villages often watch television with friends or relatives at Doorman's, as it is more accessible and affordable than satellite or cable television. Despite widespread poverty, the abundance of television aerials protruding from rooftops in these areas is quite noticeable.

In Delhi, it is common to see television aerials and satellite dishes displayed on various apartments. Similarly, in many villages, watching television has become an integral part of everyday life. In Digging village, Sartre lived and cultivated fruits and crops within their house's enclosure. She mentioned that their household watches about three to four hours of television every day, enjoying shows like Shanty, Contraband, and Alfa Leila. Their home attracts around 20 people who come over to watch television, depending on the programming being aired.

Another resident of Digging village was Viscid, a farmer who also taught informally at the village school. Their household had a black and white television for seven years. Viscid taught himself how to read and write, but noted that it became quite crowded when the television was on. He mentioned that if there is a good movie playing, approximately 50 outsiders come over to watch the television. Usually, they watch television for a few hours in the evening after work

and studies, although they may also watch it in the morning or afternoon if there is a special program.

Furthermore, when there is an important or interesting program airing, people from nearby towns and villages come to watch television at different places, such as local teashops or offices. The revenue for Doorman's now heavily relies on commercials shown during these programs.

During broadcasting, commercial breaks would occur approximately every ten or twelve minutes. Popular shows like Contraband had heavy sponsorship from companies such as Hindustan-Lever, Proctor and Gamble, Colgate-Palmolive, and Caduceus. The names of the sponsored products would flash on the screen before, during, and after each episode. Usually, there would be about five commercial breaks during the hour-long show, primarily featuring products from the sponsoring companies. According to McDowell (158), color televisions were introduced in India due to their perceived commercial appeal. It was also surprising to see how many commercials utilized clothing styles and contexts that were familiar in Britain. Women were often depicted wearing short dresses or skirts and having boyfriends. Western music was frequently used as well. For example, an advertisement for the soap Naira by Hindustan-Lever used the song "Pretty Woman" by Roy Robinson, although Handling—a mixture of Hindi and English—was more common. Another commercial for Heinlein portrayed football fans mesmerized by the game while drinking Heinlein beer. These commercials were often visually appealing, and parents would even tune in to watch them before a show started (McMahon and Luther 75-6).Many of the people we lived with enjoyed watching television commercials and found them to be better than the television programs themselves. One schoolchild commented that the commercials were well-made and

of higher quality compared to the state-run programs. According to the child, the commercials were more innovative, interesting, and thought-provoking. The student also noted that the standard of advertisements on television has significantly improved over the past few years.

Shoo, who was from a different village in the Gay district, mentioned that people in his village relied on television commercials to learn about different products. He believed that everyone in his village, regardless of their economic status, enjoyed watching commercials as they provided valuable information about available products. Television made people aware of things they could buy. Interestingly, even the poorer and illiterate individuals in Shoo's village enjoyed watching television ads, even though they couldn't afford most of the items showcased.

This trend was also observed in towns. Skill, who lived in the Garth Toll slum with her seven children, had an illegal electricity connection from overhead cables. Her house had three rooms: a kitchen, a smaller room with their bed and television, and a larger room with another bed. Skill's husband earned about 1,000 rupees per month as a chicken farmer.Skill, a person who couldn't read or write, found entertainment and information by watching television commercials. These advertisements showcased a variety of products, including toothpaste and soap. Skill recognized the benefits of advertising as it allowed her to be informed about the prices of goods. This knowledge protected her from being deceived by unfamiliar sellers when making purchases. Television served as a trusted source for accurate pricing information and greatly benefited Skill.
Hence, television commercials influenced not only consumer decisions but also societal behavior, allowing even those in remote areas to observe and adopt appropriate and acceptable

practices. Consequently, individuals embraced certain aspects from commercials like dressing similar to the models while still retaining elements of Indian culture. The transformation of clothing, particularly for young, affluent women, has been particularly notable. Television and commercials frequently showcase independent, unmarried career-focused women donning western-style attire like short dresses, mini skirts, and shorts. This shift is exemplified in the Perk chocolate commercial where a woman in a short dress and boots is seen enjoying a Perk chocolate bar while others in the bus queue look on longingly before rushing off to purchase the same product. However, older women, including mothers, tend to opt for slightly more traditional clothing such as the Salsas Zamias or the Sari. Notably, young women in cities like Delhi, Bombay, and Bangers are also starting to embrace shorts and miniskirts for the first time (Pasadena 1). During my time in Delhi, I observed numerous college students wearing miniskirts, shorts, and Shares.The western style clothing represents freedom and independence from control. This may be the future for some Indian women after they get married, especially if they marry into a traditional family. As students, they are allowed to dress and behave differently compared to what is expected of them after marriage. For instance, when Vickie was single in Bombay, she used to wear short skirts and shirts. However, she stopped wearing such clothing as she believed it would be inappropriate for her role as a wife and mother.

Instead of wearing a traditional Sari, Vickie considered it old fashioned and only suitable for special occasions. She preferred the more modern and progressive Salsas Zamias, which she saw as a compromise between western and

traditional clothing. This reflects her compromise between western and traditional cultural values. Additionally, wearing the Salsas Zamias is her way of resisting the male-dominated traditional lifestyle she had previously lived. By differentiating herself from the other women in her household, who all wore saris, she affirms her independence.

Therefore, the clothing carries symbolic significance (Fiske 20, Paternoster 3, Miller 14). Even minor details such as the role of silent annotations are important. In Bombay, Vickie's sisters not only wore short skirts but also focused on their careers and convinced their parents not to arrange marriages for them.Vickie briefly mentioned her sisters before we visited them. Once you meet my sisters, you'll notice how modern they are. They wear miniskirts and sarees (Shares) and they all have careers. When I used to be there, I also wore sarees. Even though I still have them now, it wouldn't be appropriate for me to wear them since I'm married. Instead, I usually wear salwar suits. I find sarees a bit old-fashioned, so I only wear them on formal occasions.

Vickie enjoyed the Cadbury Dairy Milk chocolate commercial featuring Indian cricketers playing cricket. In the advertisement, a well-known cricketer named Caching Denatured is about to score a century but needs one more run. Just as he's about to be caught out, a woman dressed in a short dress and eating Cadbury chocolate appears on the cricket pitch and starts dancing. This distracts the fielder, allowing Denatured to complete his century.

The advertisement includes fantasy elements since it's uncommon for women to wear such clothing and publicly dance on a cricket pitch. The woman's behavior goes against accepted norms and challenges traditional expectations.

The commercial portrays a reversal of norms as the woman holds power over the fielder, ultimately enabling Denatured to achieve his century. This advertisement was highly popular among many middle and wealthier class women. For example, Sabots expressed her appreciation for the dancing in the Cadbury Dairy Milk chocolate commercial, describing it as very pleasant.The Caduceus Dairy Milk chocolate advertisement featuring a woman impressed the advertising prize committee last year due to its exceptional quality. In the commercial, the woman, symbolized by Oman, represents independence and defiance, similar to middle-class women such as Jeffrey who are secluded from the public sphere. She holds sway over men and attracts attention, embodying desirable qualities that Sabots aspire to possess. However, these ideals are unattainable, as they must maintain respectability within their social roles.

The advertisement showcases various dance forms, including Indian dances associated with traditional values, blended with unconventional behaviors like wearing a short dress. Consequently, the persona of the woman in the commercial reflects the existing tensions within Indian society. Even if women do not completely replicate the attitudes and styles depicted in such commercials, they still absorb some of the images and values conveyed. For instance, Rota, despite having a traditional husband, managed to convince him to allow her to get a short haircut—a decision that symbolizes her identification with the woman in the advertisement and serves as a protest against her husband's conservative behavior.

By merely altering her hairstyle, Rota establishes a connection with the lifestyle and images portrayed in the Perk commercial. Simultaneously, she maintains her adherence to traditional Indian values, attitudes, and behaviors.Having her hair cut was one of the few expressions her husband

allowed. Rota, like the woman in the commercial, represented the emerging fusion of cultures in India. She embodied both modern and western elements, as well as traditional Indian customs.

Lucy resided in Delhi and belonged to the middle class. She lived with her husband and extended family in a neighborhood called Gaunter. Despite being married with a child, she wore Shares, symbolizing her Anglo-Indian identity, at home. Lucy embraced British culture by watching theater productions and reading novels from the UK. She exclusively consumed British programming and non-landing food. However, when going to work, she had to wear a sari and would change into Shares upon returning home. Even in Delhi's scorching heat of approximately 40 degrees centigrade, Lucy still wore Shares.

Therefore, her clothing choices reflected the culture she identified with (Campbell 59). As someone living with her family, I also adapted to wearing Shares to assimilate. However, I found them highly uncomfortable in the heat. Surprisingly, many students, both male and female, continued to wear Shares despite the sweltering weather. This highlighted how image and association with western influences were more significant to them than physical discomfort (Fiske 2). Wealthier Indian men like Maida and Manikin preferred tailor-made suits for work and public appearances; at home, they opted for the Pajama Charta.

Hence, there is a distinction in the emphasis on clothing for middle class Indian men and women. While middle class women often wear traditional clothing for work, middle class men tend to choose western style clothing. Manikin, a 46-year-old man, prefers Indian clothing at home as he identifies with romanticized Indian values. He believes that television negatively influences traditional Indian values, leading

to broken homes, divorce, and neglect of elder family members. Manikin associates traditional values with a nostalgic India and sees television as responsible for eroding these values in others. He associates the Pajama Charta with such traditional values. Another middle class town dweller named Sunnis wears expensive brand name shirts to differentiate himself from the poorer classes. He views the clothing of the lower classes as a sign of bad taste and considers himself to have good taste. Sunnis prefers reliable products like Phillips light bulbs due to their superior quality.

Advertisements can persuade people to try products, allowing them to make a decision about repurchasing. Uninformed individuals believe that everything on television is of high quality. Sunnis have the ability to purchase many of the products featured in ads. Consequently, this attitude towards the lower classes is evident in the clothing Sunnis wear (Luray 16).

Sunnis typically prefer western-style attire, such as shirts and trousers. However, they hold traditional values in certain aspects. For instance, Sunnis opposed their wives working, even when they were offered prominent positions. Additionally, Sunnis followed the tradition of men eating before women, regardless of arriving home late. Nevertheless, they appreciated western products and aspects of lifestyle. As a result, Sunnis epitomized the tension and contradictions within India's evolving hybrid culture. It is important to note that this hybrid culture is not exclusive to the middle and upper classes (Luray 16).

For example, in Digging village, there was a twenty-two-year-old named Raga who was the son of Preached. When we encountered him, he was resting without proper attire. He refused to engage in conversation until he changed into trousers and a shirt, which

are suitable for public settings. However, in private situations, he preferred more traditional clothing. While Johnson argues that 'modern style predominates' for everyday activities outside of the home in the Philippines (66), I believe this primarily applies to men rather than women.Raga dressed appropriately to receive us, even though I was wearing a Salsas Zamias. He perceived trousers and t-shirts as acceptable public clothing but did not wear the Lung in the presence of visitors. By changing his attire, Raga exemplified the hybrid of western and traditional Indian cultures, showcasing the significance of clothing as part of one's identity.

Sudan, a poor Brahmins priest from Tike Mamba village, wore a shirt similar to those seen on actors in television commercials, along with the Indian-style Dhoti that represented his traditional role. While some consider the Dhoti and Gandhi's values of leading a simple life as old-fashioned, Sudan embraces the mixing of western and traditional cultures by wearing both attire. The Dhoti connects him to his priestly heritage, while the shirt symbolizes his desired lifestyle in the future.

Both Raga and Sudan demonstrate how clothing situates individuals in both time and social space. Their attire serves as a link between the past and future, connecting traditional customs with the influences of western modernity.As people of lower socioeconomic status start to wear similar clothing as those in higher classes, the wealthier and middle classes must also adjust their fashion choices to maintain their distinction. This is why Sunnis opted for expensive brands that were unlikely to be affordable for the poorer classes. The notion of what is considered the right brand is influenced, in part, by television commercials. Both

peer pressure and television commercials work together, intensifying the desire to wear specific brands.

The values, lifestyles, and images depicted in television commercials contribute to the prestige associated with brand names. Tania preferred to believe that individuals from lower classes did not wear the same brands as he did. A popular commercial among middle and upper-class schoolchildren in Delhi was the Levi Shares advertisement. This cartoon-style commercial features a man saving a woman from a fire using his Levi Shares. The portrayal in the cartoon presents the man wearing Levi Shares as courageous and masculine, while depicting the woman as someone who requires saving.

The commercial is accompanied by an energetic dance track called "Mr. Bombastic," which was a chart-topping hit in Britain. Many children managed to convince their parents to buy them Levi Shares as well. A twelve-year-old boy commented, "I like the Levi Shares commercial."I am a fan of the scene where the man removes his Levi's jeans and rescues the girl. After seeing this on TV, I purchased a pair of Levi's jeans. I have a fascination with advertisements, which influences my purchasing decisions. As a result, emotionally relatable heartache is created through television commercials. People observe actors forming romantic relationships, leading to the unsurprising trend of adolescents and college students meeting up in trendy cafes to interact with the opposite sex while watching music channels like MTV. I prefer wearing socially relevant attire like Levi's jeans and shorts, as Salary and Pajama Karats are considered outdated. We visited similar cafes in Delhi, Bombay, and Bangers, which were usually bustling with male and female college students donning branded jeans and sneakers, or wearing mini

skirts and shorts. I felt quite out of place in my Salsas Zamias clothing. They would gather to watch MTV and discuss their favorite songs. Indian magazines often feature stories of teenage love where youngsters are afraid to reveal their relationships to their parents or parents struggling to accept their children having romantic partners. Nevertheless, certain traditional Indian values still hold importance. Although Western music is highly popular, Indian artists also sing Western songs and enjoy popularity.College students have the freedom to converse with individuals of the opposite gender and wear attire like shares and short skirts, which goes against traditional norms. This phase of life offers a taste of freedom before individuals are expected to conform to arranged marriages and their parents' career choices. Some individuals exhibit contrasting behaviors in public and private settings, reflecting the tension between Western and traditional Indian lifestyles. While they dutifully follow familial expectations at home, they adopt socially relevant attitudes, behaviors, and clothing outside. Children and young people are heavily influenced by their social context and environment, with clothing serving as a means of self-expression and being associated with age and personal experiences (Campbell 59). A Delhi teacher noted the cultural generation gap in India: "There's a big generation gap that currently exists in India between kids and parents. Kids are rebelling and being influenced by western ideas. They go out without informing their parents about their whereabouts... Nowadays, children tend to move out of their homes and don't always live with their in-laws like they used to." Despite rural areas adopting similar dressing styles as urban counterparts, prejudices remain. An example provided by a schoolchild is that

"rural people may not understand advertisements, even though they might enjoy watching them."

The issue of purchasing items from advertisements and its impact on Indian culture is brought up in the text. The speaker believes that while he himself engages in buying advertised products and wearing western clothing, he thinks that rural individuals should stick to their Indian culture and not indulge in such practices. This highlights the influence of television commercials on people in India, particularly in terms of their clothing choices. Young people in India have noticeably changed their clothing styles, opting for western attire like Shares, shorts, and miniskirts. In slums and villages, young men can be seen wearing western clothing, while older men tend to mix western shirts with traditional dhoti or Lung. Middle-class men usually wear western attire in public and traditional clothing in private settings. Similarly, middle-class women often wear traditional attire in public but may opt for more modern clothing like Salsas instead of a sari when at home. The combination of these clothing styles suggests a cultural fusion that is currently unfolding in India.

Source: Bah, H. The Location of Culture.

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