Charles Dana Gibson's pen and ink illustrations, known as the Gibson Girls, symbolized the epitome of femininity during the late 1800s and early 1900s. They stood as the embodiment of a post-Victorian society that was optimistic, morally upright, and grounded in tradition. The Gibson Girl illustrations provide insightful reflections on societal views of a woman's role and femininity during the early twenties, spanning across various domains from fashion to culture.
From a very young age, Gibson utilized drawing as an amusing diversion during a bout of sickness he endured in his youth. He received acknowledgement for his artistic prowess at an impressively young age of twelve, and embarked on his journey in the artistic and illustrative world in his early twenties. Swiftly, he landed a position at Life Magazine, and in less than half a decade of his career, he introduced th
...e most influential female figure of the early 20th century, The Gibson Girl (Kennedy). Bearing similarities to the contemporary barbie doll, The Gibson Girl had a profound impact on women's actions and self-perceptions regarding their identity and societal expectations.
In the words of author Kate Chopin, the Gibson Girl was a pioneering and revolutionary figure because she stepped outside societal boundaries, engaging in activities that were not typical for women of her era. She was considered more forward-thinking and independent compared to both the Victorian woman and her more subservient European counterparts. (Chopin) The Gibson Girl embodied the concept of the "New American Woman", a term that signifies a woman who breaks away from the conventional ideals established by their European ancestors. Not only did women nationwide strive to imitate her appearance, but they also
admired and replicated her compelling and lively personality. She quickly emerged as a contemporary icon and a representation of the ideal woman.
The captivating attributes of the Gibson Girl beguiled the American society for more than two decades. To fully comprehend her influence and the reason behind her adoration, it is necessary to delve into understanding who the Gibson Girl was and her purpose. Post the Victorian era, the Gibson Girl set the standard for true American beauty. She was depicted as taller than most women featured in magazines, having a shapely yet slender waist, and an impeccable figure. Women seeking to emulate the Gibson Girl were frequently seen wearing tightly laced corsets, ensuring their waists remained slim while maintaining a fuller bosom and hips.
Although not completely substantiated, the Gibson Girl is believed to have pioneered the "hourglass figure", a prevailing beauty standard today. She was known for her light complexion and well-maintained yet curly hair, often dubbed a "waterfall of curls." Her beauty aesthetic is characterized as graceful and slender. She exuded an aura of high society sophistication, but unlike aristocracy, it was approachable and non-pretentious. Women started to embody the Gibson Girl's appearance and demeanor, replicating her hairstyle, posture, and fashion sense.
Agnes Rogers, a writer featured on AmericanHeritage.com, discloses that “Numerous girls throughout the country endeavored to emulate her as closely as possible. They adopted her clothing style and hairdo.” The fashion industry for women also seized this opportunity to profit from the Gibson Girl trend, Rogers expounds, “Clothing items for women--including tapered shirtwaists adorned with “Gibson pleats” running from shoulder to waist, skirts, hats, riding stocks and so forth--were tagged as “Gibson
Girl”. The aspiration to achieve the Gibson Girl appearance was widespread among women.
Her physical qualities didn't solely create her persona of being "the aspiration of all women and the fantasy of all men" (Chopin). It was notably her lively yet enigmatic character that established the Gibson Girl's identity. She was typically trendy and composed, managing to keep her hair in place even when engaging in physical activities such as cycling or playing tennis (Kennedy). This aspect of her is further highlighted when Rogers enlightens us that “at the beach, she sported a modest swimming attire… but did not wear a swimming cap.
Whether she purposely avoided getting her hair wet, or if Gibson simply couldn't fathom concealing her defining feature, is unknown. This notably contributed to the dissenting opinions, with many arguing that the seamless allure the Gibson Girl projected was greatly disproportionate to the actual state of women during that period, prescribing an impractical and unreachable objective for females. The Gibson Girl is recognized for her inherently playful and inquisitive nature, a trait many consider as a reflection of the "American Spirit" (Lively Roots). Despite a slightly roguish demeanor, she consistently maintained her aptitude for "ladylike conduct and courtesy".
She embodied a higher level of independence than the women before her, often depicted as a college attendee (Gordon). This was particularly significant as her entrance into academia asserted Women's position in a sphere where it was considerably contentious at the time. Not only was she admired for her elegance and attractiveness, but her actions also exposed profound facets of American society. She engaged in activities traditionally off-limits to women such as playing sports, bicycling, and playing
instruments (Chopin).
In the article 'The continual allure of The Gibson Girl', it is stated that “From as early as the 1890s, she is depicted on the tennis court, golf course, cycling, and even behind the wheel of a car.” Because of these portrayals, the Gibson Girl was seen as groundbreaking. This character served as a model and an inspiration for numerous women nationwide. It is through this figure that “Women started to recognize their worth and potential beyond societal constraints” (Chopin). Moreover, it is also through her representations that “females started to understand their influence over men.”
Often portrayed as a skilled practitioner of courtship and the art of love, she is frequently depicted as somewhat of a "tease", implying that she holds the reins on a man's emotions. Notwithstanding her playful nature in terms of "the art of love", The Gibson Girl embodies virtue, modesty, and represents a woman who chooses marriage for love. It's intriguing to note, whilst the Gibson Girl is renowned for her independence and her "equality" with men, she comprehends her societal standing and seldom challenges it; she consistently maintains her femininity with grace and courtesy.
Author Martha J. Cutter, in her book, Unruly tongue: identity and voice in American women's writing, 1850-1930, characterizes the Gibson Girl as being "pure, noble, and passive-- with a capacity to be protected but not protect... though she may possess the voice of the New Woman, she doesn't employ it to challenge historically limited perspectives of women's discourse". Martha Kennedy further reinforces this notion by stating that the Gibson Girl never "made a genuine challenge against patriarchal norms...".
It is clear even from Charles Gibson himself,
demonstrated in the caption of one of his Gibson Girl Illustrations presented below as "Not Worrying About Her Rights". The Gibson Girl recognises and backs her rights, yet makes no move to protect them. This aspect of the Gibson persona provides a glimpse into the perceived ideal feminine character of the era; attractive, smart, and knowledgeable... however, undoubtedly passive and not feminist.
An article on associatedcontent.com noted that the “Gibson Girl” wouldn't go so far as to engage in the suffrage movement. Although she was allowed to think about progressive topics, she wasn't permitted to act on her thoughts or advocate for societal shifts (Roach). The Gibson Girl's style was indicative of more than just fashion and physical appearance, it was also a reflection of her function. Given that her attire was too impractical for any significant activity, and her hair was kept perfectly neat at all times, it can be easily deduced that she was not associated with the working class. She could have been wealthy, smart, and autonomous, but she was not self-made.
A person's attire is often a mirror of their desired projection to others, and The Gibson Girl certainly seeks to illustrate her beauty, style, and American roots. The image of The Gibson Girl represents an elegant, well-cared character, a contrast to the majority of females in America at that historical period. She steps into the light as an icon and a trailblazer, with her likeness spread in various popular media nationwide. Traits characterized by her are height, beauty, a voluptuous figure, independence, intellect and awareness all whilst demonstrating deference to the patriarchy.
She exemplifies the feminine ideal in the early 1920s. The
Gibson Girl's persona illustrates an aspirational, ethical, and positive era in America prior to WWI. She embodied innocence, modesty, and was a proponent of "the game of love". This is the reason why she could not maintain her identity following WWI. The Gibson Girl's era ended with the emergence of flappers. The coveted figure transitioned away from the voluptuous, hourglass physique towards a slender, tomboyish figure with elongated legs. After WWI, returning soldiers had altered preferences.
With the rise of crime and deterioration of morality, along with restrictions, the ideal woman in men's eyes evolved into someone more liberated. Men desired a woman who would partake in drinking, smoking, and jazz music with them. They sought a companion who would skip traditional courtship rituals before heading to bed. The traditional Gibson Girl, who previously epitomized feminine ideals, could not contend with the sexual appeal of the Flappers. Thus, when the war ended, the Gibson Girl gradually faded into obscurity. However, the Gibson Girls remain significant as they provide valuable insight into the early 20th century's customs, attires, and female personas.
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