How fashion and appearance are central to the construction of social identities Essay Example

the cause and effect.Either way, it is almost unavoidable that music will continue to aid the construction of social identities for groups and individuals, through the adoption of a fashion style stereotypically affiliated with different genres. Indierock and indiepop originated primarily from the underground scene. Indie, meaning independent, spawning from Punk, was once a label intended for music that was produced and released independently, however increase in the popularity of Indie has altered its definition, progressively deducing the word as an oxymoronic contradiction, as it is now referred to as a style, or a genre, of music.

The underground has become the overground, the mainstream in music preferences, with bands like The Killers and Snow Patrol signing with major labels yet still deeming themselves 'indie,' along with fans who claim to listen to 'indie' music, without necessarily being aware of its true roots. One must certainly beg the question as to whether there has been an ultimate shift in definition from a label to a genre.The contradiction of 'indie' is certainly backed up through the fashion choices of supposed indie fans; the fashion style - if there ever was one - was once regarded as 'anything goes. ' Authentic band t-shirts and one-off items obtained from unknown quirky stores, however the style has now gone mainstream, with Topman and H&M mass producing items that can be classified as 'indie fashion.

' Figure 1 shows the Topman store window for Christmas 2007, and it can be argued that the festive visual merchandising theme has been influenced heavily by indie culture.Instead of determining the authenticity and origin of a song or band, the term indie is now arguably

a fashion statement; one assumes the music choices of a stranger based on their appearance in both clothing and hairstyle, therefore social identities are constructed through presumed music tastes; stereotyping the type of music one listens to based on their appearance. This is an inevitable subconscious judgement that happens on a global scale, strengthening the link between music and fashion.An interesting point to consider is whether true indie followers actually consume the culture of so-called 'indie fashion,' or whether those who do adopt the fashion style simply want to be part of that world, to fit in with peer groups; it is a relevant point to raise as to whether people who pursue the fashion actually listen to the music or whether immense peer pressure in youths forces them to construct their identity through imitation; pressure to dress a certain way to identify with a certain type of music that is in vogue at a given period in time, whether they like the music or not.

Perhaps those people who are dedicated to the original definition of indie haven't adapted to the now mainstream version of indie style. Therefore to what extent does indie music construct social identity through fashion and appearance? One argument suggests that people are structuring their identity through listening to indie music and following the style of the musicians; on the flip side, identity may be being built around the sheer idea of what indie is now supposedly about, and therefore falling victim to the mainstream, i. e. ne claims to listen to the music and consequently buys into the style associated with it. "Of the many commodities and leisure resources through

which individuals in contemporary society construct and play out identities in the course of their everyday lives, fashion plays a central role" (Bennett, 2005: 95).

This quotation aids the suggestion that individuals use music as a leisure facility, combining it with the vital function that fashion plays in society. It is interesting to note how important youth as a subculture is in determining identity and appearance.Youths undoubtedly shape their identities through environment and pastimes, and a key point to discuss is how much of a teenager's identity is formed through their music tastes, thus adapting their appearance to fit in with that stereotyped subculture. Cannon notes that individuals use fashion "to indicate to themselves and others whether they think they belong with another individual or group" (1998:24). Therefore youth groups may be formed through similar music tastes, affiliating a specific fashionable image to adhere to in order to be part of that group.

Perhaps a suggestive debate as to why such strong images come from music genres is the intensification of visual media in recent years. With the enhancing opportunity for fans to watch their favourite bands on television, the Internet, or view pictures in magazines, the ability to copy style and clothing choices of musicians has risen considerably. Proliferating the idea that media has a strong responsibility for the link between fashion and music is the broadcast of shows like 'Fashion Rocks. ' In aid of the Princes Trust, a show hosted by Swarovski is held annually at the Royal Albert Hall.The show aims to bring together stars from both the fashion and music industries, with musicians performing alongside models showcasing designer collections. The 2007

show saw collaborations including Alecia Keys with Armani and Razorlight with Burberry.

Creative Director for Burberry Christopher Bailey can be seen in Figure 2 photographed with Johnny Borrell, lead singer of Razorlight. Borrell epitomises so-called indie fashion in a double breasted coat, skinny jeans, and messy hairstyle, with Bailey opting for skinny jeans whilst keeping in line with typical Burberry style.This image emphasises how contemporary society is aware of the ability to mix musical talent with fashion talent, through the production of such shows as Fashion Rocks. "Fashion embodies a range of symbolic values which are collectively understood within and across different social groups" (Bennett, 2005: 95).

There is a typical fashion style universally associated with someone belonging to the 'indie' social group; no longer does indie simply refer to music, it is also now used as a characteristic adjective.One would depict an individual as being 'indie' if they wore tight cardigans, skinny ties, drainpipe jeans, plimsolls or 'Converse' trainers; this undoubtedly shows that there is a huge connection between the types of music one listens to and how one would dress to represent their identity within society, and to be 'collectively understood within their social group. ' Hebdige describes music as a subculture and notes the establishment of new fashion trends through it; "Each new subculture establishes new trends, generates new looks and sounds which feed back into the appropriate industries" (1979: 95).According to Hebdige, fresh styles are spawned through every new subculture that is bred into society, and music is no exception. The male silhouette is a noticeable association to Indie culture. Masculinity once regarded as burly and muscular, the Indie scene has

now rocked this ideal.

Tight cardigans, skinny ties and 'carrot fit' jeans now defy the typical 'attractive' male body to spawn a new generation of idealised body shapes. The Autumn/Winter 2008 catwalk at Marni provided evidence of the modernised male body, with models wearing typical 'indie' fashion, creating a slender, straight silhouette (Figure 3).DeNora notes "At the level of daily life, music has power..

. Music may influence how people compose their bodies, how they conduct themselves" (2000: 16-17). According to DeNora, music can have a distinct effect on the composition of the body, and the thought process regarding attractive body shapes; this is evident in the Marni catwalk show. For a well renowned designer to introduce supposed 'indie-style' fashion into their collection surely emphasises the extreme influence music has on fashion, whether conscious or unconscious.The Marc Jacobs A/W 2006 show also saw indie inspired hairstyles and vintage t-shirts.

A chic designer known for high-class status designing an indie influenced collection shows just how far the craze has swayed the fashion industry. Subsequently Meg White from the band The White Stripes was signed to model for Marc Jacobs (Figure 4). Jacobs chose White as a way of appealing his clothes to music fans, as supporters of the band or even just the genre of music will be able to relate to the fashion collection, through the mutual identification of a respected musical figure.Conclusively, one cannot refute the intertwined connection that brings music and fashion together. There is a continuous style associated with all genres of music, a stereotypical image of how one should dress.

In terms of indie music, the shift from underground to overground has

certainly had a large degree of effect on the affiliated fashion style to accompany it, even altering the ideal male silhouette within its specific subculture.It is inevitable that music as a hobby or a way of life will aid the construction of social identities in individuals, through the common mutual entity; fashion. Fashion and appearance are effective and significant forms of expression, and throughout one's lifetime at some point or another, an individual will predictably fall prey to the uniformed characteristics of a typified genre as a way of expressing their identity via music preferences and choice.