Oceanography Exam Test – Flashcards

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Acid
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A substance that increases the hydrogen ion concentration of a solution.
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Brackish
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Having a salty taste and unpleasant to drink
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Condense
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To change from a gas to a liquid
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Continental Effect
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areas that are less affected by the sea and have a greater range of temperature differences (both daily and yearly)
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Covalent Bond
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sharing a pair of electrons between atoms in a molecule
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Desalination
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A process of removing salt from ocean water
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Evaporation
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The change of a liquid to a gas
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Halocline
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a layer of water in which the salinity changes rapidly with changes in depth
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Hydrogen Bond
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weak attraction of a slightly positive hydrogen atom to a slightly negative portion of another molecule
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Hypersaline
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waters that are highly or excessively saline
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Latent Heat
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Heat given off when matter changes state
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Marine effect
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A quality of regions that are dominated by the moderating effect of the ocean and that exhibit a smaller range of minimum and maximum temperatures, both daily and annually, than do continental stations.
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Molecule
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2 or more atoms held together by covalent bonds
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pH scale
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measurement system used to indicate the concentration of hydrogen ions (H+) in solution; ranges from 0 to 14
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Polarity
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A lack of electrical symmetry in a molecule. Charge differences on opposite ends of a structure.
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Precipitation
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Any form of water that falls from clouds and reaches Earth's surface.
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Pycnocline
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a layer of water in which there is a rapid change of density with depth
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Residence time
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The average time a given molecule of water will stay in a given water source
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Reverse osmosis
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A desalinization process that involves forcing salt-water through a membrane permeable to water but not to salt
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salinity
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A measure of the amount of dissolved salts in a given amount of liquid
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Temperature
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A measure of the average energy of motion of the particles of a substance.
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Thermal contraction
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When heat is removed from a substance and the volume decreases.
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Thermocline
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A layer in a large body of water, such as a lake, that sharply separates regions differing in temperature, so that the temperature gradient across the layer is abrupt.
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albedo
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Fraction of solar radiation reaching earth that is reflected back into space
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climate
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Overall weather in an area over a long period of time
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cold front
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A front where cold air moves in under a warm air mass.
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coriolis effect
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Causes moving air and water to turn left in the southern hemisphere and turn right in the northern hemisphere due to Earth's hemisphere and tilt.
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cyclone
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storm with heavy rains and high winds that blow in circular pattern around an area of low atmospheric pressure
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doldrums
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A frequently windless area near the Equator
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equinox
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Two times during a year when the sun crosses the celestial equator and when the length of day and night are approximately equal
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horse latitudes
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are regions of high pressue and gentle winds at about 30 degrees north and south latitude
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jet stream
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A narrow belt of strong winds that blow in the upper troposphere
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land breeze
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Movement of air from land to sea at night, created when cooler, denser air from the land forces up warmer air over the sea
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polar front
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The boundary at which air flowing away from the polar regions collides with the warmer air from the lower latitudes
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polar high
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Zone of high atmospheric pressure at high latitudes
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saffit-simpson scale
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A scale of a hurricane intensity that divides tropical cyclones into categories based on wind speed and damage.
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storm surge
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A dome of water that sweeps across the coast where a hurricane lands
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sub polar low
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low pressure located under the prevailing westerly and polar easterlies
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subtropical high
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A belt of high pressure located in Australia, which pushes heavy subsiding air outward toward both north and south.
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summer solstice
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Day with the most hours of sunlight and the fewest hours of darkness
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temperate
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Mild, moderate
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trade winds
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Prevailing winds that blow northeast from 30 degrees north latitude to the equator and that blow southeast from 30 degrees south latitude to the equator.
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tropic of cancer
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a line of latitude about 23 degrees North of the equator
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tropic of capricorn
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23 1/2 Degrees South of the Equator
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tropical
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A warm air mass that forms in the tropics and has low air pressure
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tropical cyclone
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If the wind exceeds 120 kilometers (74mph)
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troposphere
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the lowest atmospheric layer
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warm front
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A front where warm air moves over cold air and brings drizzly rain and then are followed by warm and clear weather.
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weather
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Condition of earths atmosphere at a particular time and place
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westerly wind belt
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in Northern hemisphere, blowing from the west, winds turn clockwise
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winter solstice
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December 22, when the sun is at its southernmost point
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coastal downwelling
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wind blows water toward coastline, surface water forced downward, gases and nutrients go to deeper waters
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coastal upwelling
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Upwelling adjacent to a coast, usually induced by wind
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conveyer-belt circulation
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an integrated model combining deep thermohaline circulation and surface currents
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downwelling
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is the movement of water from the surface to greater depths
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ekman spiral
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a form of ocean circulation driven by wind where water moves in a spiral pattern from the surface to deeper layers, based on coriolis force.
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el nino (ENSO)
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a warm ocean current that flows along the equator from the date line and south off the coast of Ecuador at Christmas time
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gulf stream
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A well-defined current of relatively warm water that flows northward along the East Coast of the United States.
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gyre
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the large, circular surface-current pattern found in each ocean
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la nina
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"Normal" year, easterly trade winds and ocean currents pool warm water in the western Pacific, allowing upwelling of nutrient rich water off the West coast of South America.
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monsoon
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A seasonal wind that usually brings moist air during the summer and dry air during the winter.
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sargasso sea
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Huge floating seaweed in the North Atlantic
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southern oscillation
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atmospheric pressure conditions corresponding to the periodic warming of El Nino and cooling of La Nina
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surface current
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A horizontal movement of ocean water that is caused by wind and that occurs at or near the ocean's surface
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thermohaline circualtion
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a density driven flow of water, generated by differences in salinity or temp
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upwelling
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The movement of deep, cold, and nutrient-rich water to the surface
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Beaufort wind scale
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the tool we use to classify the name of the wind and describe the wind speed
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circular orbital motion
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as a wave travels, the water passes the energy along by moving in a circle; decreases with depth
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constructive interference
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The interference that occurs when two waves combine to make a wave with a larger amplitude
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orbital wave
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a progressive wave in which particles of the medium move in closed circles
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plunging breaker
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waves which occur on a beach with a moderately steep slope, curl over and form tunnel until they break
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refraction
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Since waves in the ocean change speed as they approach shore, their change in direction can be attributed to ______.
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shallow water wave
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a wave in water shallower that 1/20 its wavelength
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spilling breaker
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Turbulent mass of air and water that runs down the front slope of the wave is at breaks; results from a gently sloped ocean floor
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surging breaker
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A compressed breaking wave that builds up over a short distance and surges forward as it breaks. It is characteristic of abrupt beach slopes.
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trough
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Lowest point of a wave
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wave base
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The depth below the surface where the circular orbits become so small that movement is negligible. It is equal to one-half the wavelength
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wave height
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The vertical distance from the crest of a wave to the trough
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wave reflection
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a vertical barrier can reflect waves back into the ocean with little loss of energy
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wavelength
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Horizontal distance between the crests
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Explain how the geometry of the water molecule contributes to its polarity.
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Both H atoms on the same side of O atom. Magnet
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Why is water considered a universal solvent?
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Because it can dissolve anything, unusual thermal properties, density
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How does hydrogen bonding affect the thermal properties of water?
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high surface tension, high solubility of chemical compounds in water
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Compare and contrast heat capacity and latent heat.
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heat capacity: affects earths climate, latent heat: hidden heat from the change in state
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What gives water many of its unique properties?
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dipolar nature, high surface tension, high solubility of chemical compounds
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How do the unique thermal properties of water affect global climate?
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Heat capacity
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How does the density of water change with temperature? Why is ice less dense than liquid water?
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Density increases as temperature decreases (thermal contraction).
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Define salinity and what is the average salinity of sea water?
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total amount of dissolved solids in water including gases; avg salinity is 35 o/oo.
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Discuss the distribution of Earth's water and how it moves through the hydrologic cycle.
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land precipitation to runoff to evaporation to total evap.
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Discuss the implications of residence time for substances dissolved in sea water.
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Ions with long residence time have high concentration in seawater (sodium). Ions with short residence time are in low concentration in seawater.
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Distinguish between and acid and an alkaline (base). What is the average pH of ocean water and explain how it is maintained?
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acid = low pH level alkaline = big pH level. pH avg = 8.1. Buffering system keeps the ocean from becoming too acidic or too basic
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Discuss salinity variations with latitude and depth.
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low salinity @ surface; salinity increases with depth
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Discuss how density varies with ocean depth. What is the most important factor influencing density of sea water?
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Temperature increases density decreases
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Differentiate between a halocline, pycnocline, and thermocline.
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Mixed surface layer - about thermocline; Upper water - thermocline and pycnolcline; Deep water - below thermocline; halo cline - separates ocean layers of different salinity.
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Discuss the importance of desalination in producing fresh water. Where is it used?
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provides fresh water for homes, business, agriculture
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What is the cause of Earth's season? Describe the equinoxes and solstices?
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Earths axis; summer solstice @ tropic of cancer. Winter solstice @ tropic of capricorn
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What are the effects of differential albedo (ice/snow; land/water) on climate.
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(snow) Light colored surfaces = reflect more (land) Dark colored surfaces = absorb more
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Discuss how convection cells are created in the atmosphere. How does air density affect surface pressure? What is the cause of wind?
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density differences; Warm, less dense air rises - low surface pressure and cool, denser air sinks - high surface pressure
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Discuss the effects of a rotating Earth on wind and water movement. How does the Coriolis Effect differ with latitude? What is the effect of this difference on idealized pressure belts and wind systems?
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Earths wind is affected buy the Coriolis effect. the Coriolis effect decreases as latitude decreases.
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Describe the location, direction of air movement, and corresponding air pressure for : subtropical highs, polar highs, equatorial lows, and subpolar lows.
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Subtropical highs - 30 degrees latitude north or south of the equator; Polar highs -90 degrees latitude north or south of the equator; Equatorial low - equator; Subpolar lows - 60 degrees latitude
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Distinguish between doldrums, horse latitudes, and the polar front and give location of each.
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Doldrums - along equator; Intertropical Congergence Zone (ITCZ) - at equator. Horse Latitudes - 30 degrees. Polar front - 60 degrees
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Differentiate between weather and climate.
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Weather - conditions of the atmosphere at a given time and place. Climate- long term average of the weather; Ocean influences earths weather and climate patterns
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Describe the relationship between air pressure and wind direction in cyclonic and anticyclonic flow.
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Cyclone - low pressure system - flow counterclockwise In N. Hemisphere; clockwise in S. Hemisphere; Anticyclone - High pressure system - flow clockwise in N. Hemisphere; counterclockwise in S. Hemisphere
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How do land and sea breezes form?
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Sea breeze - from ocean to land (cold air is heavier it sinks); Land breeze - from land to ocean (warm air rises)
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What is an air mass and how are they classified? Name and describe some examples.
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large volumes of air with distinct properties, classified on source region (indicates temperature); Polar (Arctic) or Tropical and nature of surface in source region (indicates moisture content)
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How do storms form? Which air always rises? Why?
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disturbances with strong winds and precipitation. warm air because its less dense than cold air.
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How do hurricanes form? What powers a hurricane?
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air rises, low pressure deepens, wind speed increases; powered by latent heat,
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Name the Earth's climate zones and describe climate patterns in each.
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o Equatorial - low pressure, rising air, weak winds, doldrums o Tropical- N. & S. of equator to Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn; strong winds, little precipitation, rough seas o Subtropical- high pressure, descending air, weak winds, sluggish currents o Temperate- strong westerly winds, severe storms, severe storms are common o Subpolar- extensive precipitation, summer sea ice o Polar- high pressure, sea ice most of year
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Why are coastal regions optimal locations for developing wind power?
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Because they are a vast potential for clean, renewable power
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What is the difference between surface and deep ocean currents?
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Surface are wind driven and are primarily horizontal. Deep ocean currents are density driven and run horizontal and vertical.
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List the 5 subtropical gyres.
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North Atlantic - Columbus Gyre, South Atlantic, North Pacific, South Pacific, Indian Ocean
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Explain the formation of equatorial currents.
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(N or S) - travel westward along equator
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Give the physical characteristics of western boundary currents. Give an example of one.
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fast, narrow, deep, warm; gulf stream
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Give the physical characteristics of eastern boundary currents.
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cold, slow, shallow, wide; canary current
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Describe the Ekman Spiral. What are its implications for ocean water circulation?
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surface currents move at angle to wind; describes speed and direction of seawater flow @ different depths; In N. Hemisphere each successive layer moves increasingly to right (Coriolis Effect) because the effect of friction.
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How do ocean currents influence adjoining land masses?
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Warm currents associated with warm, humid air at coast; Cool currents associated with cool, dry air at coast
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Differentiate between upwelling and downwelling
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upwellling: high biological productivity while downwelling is not
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Describe the causes of upwelling and name some places where upwelling would occur.
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cold, deep nutrient rich water to surface; california
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What is unique about the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (West Wind Drift)?
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Only current to completely circle Earth; moves most water
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What are some characteristics and climate effects of the Gulf Stream?
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moderates climates along east coast of US as well as those in Northern Europe
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Describe the water temperature of the north and south moving currents in the North Atlantic Subtropical Gyre?
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north moving currents warm, south moving currents are cool
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Detail the relationship between global wind belts in tropical areas and seasonal variation in precipitation and temperature patterns (monsoons).
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Winter - Northeast monsoon (land to sea)- high pressure; dry weather on land. Summer- Southwest monsoon- (sea to land) low pressure; heavy rains on land
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Differentiate between the characteristics and effects of El Nino and La Nina (ENSO).
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el nino: downwelling, weaker trade winds, high pressure in eastern pacific weakens. La nina: upwelling, strong trade winds, shallow thermocline, cooler seawater.
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Describe the global effects of severe El Ninos.
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flooding, droughts, tropical storms, etc.
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Explain the importance of thermohaline circulation and how it is driven by water density.
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links major surface and deep water currents. wind cooled surface water, evaporation/sea ice have increased salinity. this increases surface water density = sink.
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Why do deep currents form only in high latitude regions?
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because cool water sinks, due to temperature and density (thermohaline circulation)
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Differentiate between surface ocean waves and internal waves.
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Surface waves are wind generated and internal waves form along water to water interface with water of different densities
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Explain the circular orbital motion of ocean water in relation to the movement of the waveform.
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...
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What controls the speed of deep water waves?
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wavelength; longer wavelength=faster wave
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Define a shallow water wave. What controls the speed of a shallow water wave?
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Depth < 1/20 of wavelength, Waves touch bottom which interferes with orbital motion, Speed is controlled by water depth
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Discuss the development of wind generated waves. Which factors affect wave energy?
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Capillary waves progress to gravity waves as wind increases and more energy is transferred to ocean
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What is a Rogue Wave?
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constructive interference
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Discuss the changes that waves undergo as they move from deep water to shallow water to shoreline.
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decreases: wave speed, wavelength. Increases: heigh, steepness.
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Name 3 types of breakers and discuss which would be best for surfing.
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spilling, plunging (best for surfing), surging
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Which U.S. coast has better surfing conditions and why?
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U.S. West coast, plunging: steep beach slope
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Explain wave refraction and how it is related to energy distribution along shorelines. What is the net effect of wave refraction on irregular coast lines?
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bending of waves, energy concentration at headlands dispersed along bays. net effect is straighten irregular coasts
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What is wave reflection?
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Bouncing back of wave energy when waves strike barrier
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Define tsunami and describe the forces that produce these waves.
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Seismic Sea Wave, underwater: landslide, volcano collapse, eruption, meteorite impact.
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Why is it more likely that tsunami would be generated along faults with vertical rather than horizontal movement?
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Changes in height of the sea floor are the most likely to create the tsunami.
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Discuss the characteristics of tsunami waves.
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long wavelengths, behaves as shallow water wave, fast in open ocean
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Where are tsunamis most likely to occur?
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Pacific Ocean (ring of fire)
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Individual water molecules have _______ bonds. Why do hydrogen bonds form between neighboring water molecules?
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Covalent. The oxygen in the water molecule is partially negative and hydrogen in the water is partially positive.
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Water molecules are an effected solvent of ionic compounds such as sodium chloride (NaCl) due to their ________ .
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Polarity (dipolar nature)
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What is difference between heat and temperature?
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Temperature=direct measure of avg kinetic energy of molecules that make up a substance. Heat is the energy transfer from 1 body to another.
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How does the heat capacity of water compare with that other substances? Describe the effect it has on climate.
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Water has an abnormally high heat capacity. It effects climate because it is able to store a large amount of heat, meaning that there is less heat in the atmosphere. Hence, the weather is cooler.
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What is salinity?
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Salinity is the total amount of solid material dissolved in water.
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What is the average salinity of seawater in parts per thousand?
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35ppt
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Discuss marine effect vs. continental effect.
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...
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Name and discuss the process that increase and decrease surface ocean salinity.
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Decreasing: adding fresh water; precipitation, runoff, melting icebergs, melting sea ice. Increasing: removing water; evaporation, sea ice formation
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Sea water density is a function of _______.
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Temperature
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Explain why ice is less dense than water.
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hydrogen bonding.
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Describe the ways in which dissolved components are added and removed from sea water.
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Ions are added to ocean water by: river discharge, volcanic eruptions, hydrothermal activity. Removed: adsorption, precipitation, sea spray, biologic processes, hydrothermal activity.
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Explain the difference between an acid and an alkali (base) substance.
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Acid releases (H+) ions when dissolved in water. Alkaline (base) releases a hydroxide ion in water.
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How would you describe the average pH of the oceans?
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The avg pH is 8.1 (slightly alkaline/basic)
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Explain why there is such a wide variation of surface salinity but such a narrow range of salinity at depth?
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Surface water can experience wide variation in salinity levels compared with those in deeper waters due to that any fresh water in the area will rise to the surface and remain there due to lower density.
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If stream is the main source of dissolved substances in sea water why do the components of the two (streams and sea water) not match each other more closely?
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Because substances such as sodium have long residence times and become concentrated.
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________ is the most important factor in influencing sea water density.
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Temperature
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_______ water has the highest density.
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Cold
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______ is the condition of the atmosphere at a given time and place while ________ is a long term average.
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Weather, climate
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The most abundant gas in the atmosphere is __________ and the second most abundant gas in the atmosphere is ________.
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Nitrogen, oxygen
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________, less dense air rises while _______, denser air sinks.
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Warm, cool
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The lowest most portion of earths atmosphere is called _______.
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Troposphere
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Is earth's atmosphere heated form above or below?
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Below
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Name the process that heats earths lower atmosphere and explain how it works.
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Greenhouse effect. The suns radiation warms the troposphere, the ground warms air adjacent to the surface through convection.
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Describe the Coriolis Effect in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.
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The deflection of objects (airplanes). Northern hemisphere goes to the right. Southern Hemisphere goes to the left
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Explain how wind is generated.
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differences in temperatures and pressures, caused by air moving from regions of high pressure to low regions of unequal heating on the earths surface.
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Why does the earth have seasons?
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The earths axis is tilted.
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_______ bonds form in a water molecule due to electron sharing.
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Covalent
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_______ bonds form between water molecules due to polarity of the water molecules.
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Hydrogen
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Name 3 unique properties of water:
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Universal solvent, high surface tension, high heat capacity
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The unique properties of water can be explained by the water molecules unusual _________ which give it a dipole nature (polarity).
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Geometry
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Sodium becomes concentrated in sea water due to its long ________________.
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Residence time
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Why do coastal areas have more moderate temperatures than inland areas?
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The marine effect: oceans high heat capacity moderates coastal temperatures
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Seasons are the result of the ______ of Earths axis/
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tilt
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The Arctic Circle receives 24 hours a day light on _______ which is known as the __________ in the northern hemisphere.
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June 21, Summer Solstice
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______ is less dense so it tends to _____ while _____ air is more dense so it tends to _____.
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Warm - Rise. Cold - Sink
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The most abundant gas in the air (78%) is ________. ________ is about 21% of the atmosphere.
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Nitrogen, Oxygen
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The lowest layer in the atmosphere is the ___________. It is heated from below/above.
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Troposphere, below
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___________ atmospheric pressure at the surface is associated with sinking air and clear, fair weather.
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High
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___________ atmospheric pressure is associated with rising air clouds and precipitation.
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Low
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Describe mT air mass. What does mT stand for?
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mT=maritime tropical (warm/wet)
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What does cP stand for.
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cold/dry polar
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The ___________ gulf stream is an example of a western boundary current which carries warm/cool (circle one) water.
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warm
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Western boundary currents can be described as ___________, ___________, and ___________.
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Fast, narrow, deep
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Describe the effect of the gulf stream on climate.
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Moderates temperatures by bringing warm/humid air to the U.S. east and north coast. Also moderates temperatures in Europe.
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___________ is the movement of cold, deep nutrient water to the surface.
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upwelling.
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Name 4 types of upwelling.
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Coastal, Sea Floor, Equatorial, Bend in the coastline
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Upwelling is associated with high/low (circle) productivity which means abundance of microscopes algae.
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High biological productivity
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Surface ocean currents are driven by
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wind (surface waves as well)_
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The seasonal monsoons in the Indian Ocean are the result of ___________ heating of land and ocean creating pressure differences
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Differential
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During the winter months ___________ pressure from over land causes winds to blow from land to sea resulting in rainy/dry (circle) weather conditions over in india.
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high, dry
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During the summer months ___________ pressure over the ocean causes winds to blow tom sea to land resulting in rainy/dry (circle) weather conditions over india.
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Low, rainy
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Ocean waves have a ___________ orbital motion.
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circular
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surface ocean waves are ___________ generated.
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wind
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Wave refraction results in wave energy being concentrated on the ___________ and dispersed in the ___________.
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headland, base
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Tsunamis are large destructive waves usually generated by undersea ___________.
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earthquakes
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Tsunamis are considered to be ___________ waves due to their long wave lengths.
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shallow-watered
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The speed of deep water waves is controlled by ___________. The speed of shallow water waves is controlled by ___________.
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water length/water depth.
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What are rogue waves and how do they form?
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Severe waves that combine together like constructive interference. 2 trophs combine and double in size.
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Covalent bonds form due to
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electron sharing
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hydrogen bonds form due to
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polarity
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which is stronger hydrogen/covalent.?
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covalent
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What are the advantages of offshore wind farms in the North Sea compared to offshore wind farm sin Florida Coast?
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the north sea is in a zone of low pressure with continuous high winds. when winds form they are offshore and not seen, north sea = cold, no tourism
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What are some negative environmental factors that could inhibit the development of offshore wind farms?
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building costs, maintenance cost, line loss, damage in the storm, sea floor damage, and ugly
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What are categories of hurricane damage and which is responsible for most hurricane deaths?
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storm surge - 90%
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Distinguish between warm and cold fronts. Which air always rises? Why?
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Cold front - cold air replacing warm air (severe weather); Warm front - warm air replacing cold air **warmer less dense air always rises over denser colder air**
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What could happen to ocean water pH as a result of increased atmospheric CO2?
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Too much acid will go into the ocean and dissolve shells and kill marine life.
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Alkaline
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A substance that increases the hydroxide ion concentration of a solution.
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Colder air moving over significantly warmer ocean surface water may produce ___________. (a) a cold front (b) a warm front (c) changes in coastal wind direction (d) increased coastal precipitation (e) sea smoke
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Increased coastal precipitation
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What accounts for all the unique properties of water?
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Its unique geometry causes the water molecule to have a resulting electrical polarity.
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Which type of bond holds adjacent water molecules together?
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hydrogen bond
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Each hydrogen atom shares its single electron with electrons in the oxygen atom. Which type of bond is this?
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covalent bond
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The fact that ice is less dense than water—which causes ice to float—is due to ___________.
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the molecular packing of bulky ice crystals
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The Red Sea has ____________ water because of large amounts of ______________.
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hypersaline; evaporation
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The Baltic Sea has ____________ because of ______________.
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brackish water; large amounts of runoff
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Where is the salinity of ocean surface waters HIGHEST?
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about 25 degrees north or south of the equator
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There is no pycnocline in _______ latitude regions because _____________.
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high-; the water column is uniformly cold and dense
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In water vapor, there is no interconnectedness of individual water molecules (no hydrogen bonds).
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True
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In the high latitudes, there is a prominent and well-developed thermocline.
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False
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The density of seawater increases with ________ in temperature and ________ in salinity.
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a decrease; an increase
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The "midnight Sun" is a phenomenon observed in Northern Hemisphere polar regions only when the Sun is directly above _______________.
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the Tropic of Cancer
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At the time of the vernal equinox, the Sun is directly overhead at ______________.
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the equator
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Globally, air descends (sinks toward the surface) at ______________.
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30 degrees latitude and 90 degrees latitude (the poles)
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Areas of high atmospheric pressure (at Earth's surface) generally experience what kind of conditions?
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sinking air, with dry, clear weather
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Legend holds that the "horse latitudes" derived their name from sailors who, in desperation, abandoned horses overboard because the sailors were ______________.
answer
stuck at the boundary between the trades and the westerlies.
question
Rising warm air is associated with regions of ________ atmospheric pressure caused by thermal ________.
answer
low; expansion
question
Which of the following statements about the physical characteristics of waves is FALSE?
answer
The depth at which orbital motion ceases is called the still water level.
question
Circular orbital motion in waves becomes negligible (dies out) at depths greater than ____________.
answer
half the wave's wavelength
question
In deep water, a wave with a wavelength of 60 meters and a wave height of 6 meters will have orbital motion down to a depth of ___________.
answer
30 meters
question
Which of the following is NOT a physical change that a wave experiences as the wave reaches shallow water?
answer
The wavelength increases.
question
What is wave refraction?
answer
The bending of waves as they approach a coastline
question
Of the following factors, all increase the amount of energy in waves EXCEPT __________.
answer
increasing water vapor content in the air
question
Internal waves are usually found in areas where there is a strong, permanent pycnocline.
answer
True
question
Waves always travel in the same direction as the prevailing current, even far offshore.
answer
False
question
In shallow-water waves, wave speed increases with increased water depth; in deep-water waves, wave speed increases with increased wavelength.
answer
True
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