Milady’s Esthetics Chapter 19- Advanced Topics and Treatments – Flashcards
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Advanced esthetics
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Advanced esthetics is an ever-expanding subject. There are many interesting topics to study and techniques to utilize. Advanced esthetics goes beyond the basics and is traditionally part of postgraduate studies. Chemical exfoliation, microdermabrasion, light therapy, clinical skin care, and spa body treatments are just some of the specialized services offered in the world of esthetics. This chapter presents an overview of some advanced esthetic topics. Estheticians can incorporate many of these treatments into their service menus.
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Advanced esthetics
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The public's growing interest in maintaining the health of the body, coupled with tremendous scientific advances, has generated a trend toward integrating beauty, health, and therapeutic services. As a result, estheticians are required to be more knowledgeable about new tools and technology. Procedures such as microdermabrasion have expanded the esthetician's repertoire to include more results-driven services.
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Why study advanced topics and treatments
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Estheticians should study and have a thorough understanding of advanced topics and treatments so they can better serve their clients while increasing their service revenues and menus. Advanced treatments have expanded the esthtetician's repertoire to include more results-driven services such as chemical exfoliation and microdermabrasion.
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Why study advanced topics and treatments?
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Chemical exfoliation, microdermabrasion, light therapy, clinical skin care, and spa body treatments are just some of the specialized services estheticians are expected to be knowledgeable about, including the benefits and contraindications of the treatments.
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Why study advanced topics and treatments
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The public's growing interest in maintaining the health of the body, coupled with tremendous scientific advances, has generated a trend toward integrating beauty, health, and therapeutic services. Offering advanced treatments will keep technicians competitive in the marketplace.
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Chemical exfoliation
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Offering chemical exfoliation in your skin care practice will be one of the most exciting and financially rewarding areas of your treatment "bag of tricks." In the field of skin care, we define the process of removing excess accumulations of dead cells from the corneum layers of the epidermis as "superficial peeling, exfoliation, keratolysis, and desquamation". These are all interchangeable terms. This process can be accomplished mechanically, manually, or chemically by the use of specific products "glycolic acid" formulated to achieve these results.
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Chemical exfoliation
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Physicians use procedures designed to penetrate deeper into the skin "the dermal layer" that are referred to as "medium or deep peels". Skin care therapists, in contrast, use procedures designed to penetrate only the epidermis. These are referred to as "light peels, or chemical exfoliation". These light "peels" are noninvasive and nonaggressive in nature and are designed to treat the epidermis- not the dermis, or living tissue.
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Peel history
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More than 5,000 years ago, the Egyptians used a form of chemical peeling. They understood the value of lactic acid from milk and the various fruit acids for skin conditioning. Thus, when Cleopatra relaxed in her milk bath, she was actually using a method of chemical exfoliation.
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Peel history
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Physicians began to use deeper peels in 1882, employing resorcinol, trichloroacetic acid TCA, salicylic acid, and phenol. These procedures became very popular in the 1930's and 1940's when Antoinette la Gasse brought procedures from France to the United States. In the 1980's the practice of superficially peeling clients by estheticians was just beginning. Alpha hydroxy acid AHA peels were buzzword of the 1990's, and they are even more popular today.
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The cell renewal factor
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The cell renewal factor CRF, or "cell turnover rate", is the rate of cell mitosis and migration from the dermis to the top of the epidermis. This process slows down with age. The average rate of cell turnover rate for babies is 14 days; for teenagers, 21 to 28 days; for adults, 28 to 42 days; for those 50 and older, 42 to 84 days. Keeping the cell mitosis going is one of the goals for skin preservation.
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The cell renewal factor
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Factors influencing the CRF include genetics, the natural environment, and one's medical history, lifestyle, personal care, and exfoliation methods. The keratinized corneum layer is composed of approximately 15 to 20 layers and varies in thickness in different body areas. While exfoliating is great for the skin, a hydrolipidic balance must be maintained, especially for alipidic "dry" skins. Over peeling is detrimental to the skin.
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Deep peels versus light peels
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Deep peels are administered by a physician and make use of the following chemicals: resorcinol, phenol "carbolic acid, also called Baker's peel", trichloroacetic acid TCA, glycolic acid "50 percent or more", and Jessner's peel "4 to 10 coats". Jessner's peel contains lactic acid, salicylic acid, and resorcinol in an ethanol solvent. It is very strong. TCA is a medium-depth peel that removes the epidermis down to the dermis. Phenol is a highly acidic deep peel that peels down into the dermis.
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Deep peels versus light peels
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Light peel "chemical exfoliators" are esthetician administered. These make use of glycolic acid "30 percent or less", lactic acid "30 percent or less", enzyme peels, and in some cases Jessner's solution "1 to 3 coats". Chemical exfoliation is used in place of the word peel to differentiate between deeper clinical peels and the lighter chemical exfoliation with AHAs used in salons and spas.
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AHAs and BHAs
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Alpha Hydroxy Acids AHAs and Beta Hydroxy Acids BHAs are mild acids. Glycolic acid is the strongest alpha hydroxy acid and is derived from sugar cane. Acids are used in different percentages and pH factors to dissolve the desmosomes between cells to keep skin cells exfoliated. Other AHAs promote superficial peeling as well. Beta hydroxy acids, while milder, are also used to effectively exfoliate the skin.
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AHAs and BHAs
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AHAs penetrate the corneum via the intercellular matrix and loosen the bonds between the cells. The intercellular matrix between the skin cells consists of ceramides, lipids, glycoproteins, and active enzymes. AHAs also stimulate the production of intercellular lipids. Glycolic acid can penetrate into the epidermis more effectively because it has the smallest molecular size of AHAs.
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AHAs and BHAs
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AHAs include glycolic acid derived from sugar cane; lactic acid derived from milk; tartaric acid derived from grapes; citric acid derived from citrus fruit; and malic acid derived from apples. Citric acid is now considered and AHA, rather than a BHA.
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AHAs and BHAs
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BHAs "salicylic acid" also dissolve oil and are used for oily skin and acne. Salicylic acid- derived from sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen- has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Aspirin is derived from salicylates, so those clients allergic to aspirin may be allergic to salicylic ingredients.
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Acid alkaline, and pH relationships
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The pH is an important consideration in peel products. Acids have a pH of 1 to 6, neutral is 7, and alkalies range from 8 to 14. The average pH of skin ranges from 4.5 to 5.5. Acids penetrate into the skin can be a cause of irritation. A pH of less than 3 is not recommended for salon peels; most states do not allow using a lower pH. A 30 percent concentration of glycolic acid is usually formulated to have a pH of 3 is buffered properly.
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Acid alkaline, and pH relationships
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Buffering agents are ingredients added to products to help make them less irritating. Products with a higher percent of acid and lower pH are more irritating. The acid needs to have a pH lower than the skin's pH to be effective. Over the counter, OTC AHA product formulations contain from 2 to 15 percent of an acid. The most common AHAs sold by salons range from 5 to 10 percent. Physicians carry products with higher percentages.
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Peeling and Chemical exfoliation benefits
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Peels and chemical exfoliation results: An Improved texture of the skin, barrier function, and moisture retention. Increased CRF, hydration, and intercellular lipids. Reduced fine lines, wrinkles, and surface pigmentation. Skin that looks and feels smoother and softer. Improved skin conditions such as acne, hyperpigmentation, clogged pores, and dry skin. Potentially stimulating elastin and collagen production.
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Who should have a chemical exfoliation treatment?
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Who are the best candidates for chemical exfoliation? When determining whether a series if a treatment is appropriate for a client, consider the following factors: skin type, sebaceous gland activity, skin conditions, the client's philosophy of sun exposure, her cosmetic and product use, whether she is using Retin-A or other acids/AHAs, or acne drugs such as terracycline.
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Contraindications
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Chemical exfoliation contraindications include the following: Recent cosmetic surgeries, laser resurfacing, chemical peels, or dermabrasion. Recent injectables, fillers, botox. Use of Retin-A or other medications that exfoliate or thin the skin. Allergies or sensitivities to products or ingredients. Pregnancy. Herpes simplex. Hyperpigmentation. Inflamed rosacea or acne. Infectious diseases. Open sores or suspicious lesions. Sunburn or irritated skin. Photosensitizing medications " make the skin very sensitive to the sun". Other contraindicated drugs or medication.
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Contraindications
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Before a chemical exfoliation service, discuss the issues and contraindications during the client consultation. Explain the procedures, the expected outcome, and realistic goals. In a diagnostic facial or skin analysis before scheduling treatments, note the condition of the skin, dehydration, hyperpigmentation, open lesions, and any other skin conditions in the client's intake form. Also chose the type of exfoliant based on the client's skin condition and results desired. Additional ingredients added to formulas include pigment lighteners, acne ingredients, moisturizers or hydrators, and others.
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The procedure for AHAs
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Your regulatory agency will determine the guidelines regarding the strength and pH of the product. The treatment selection will include the type of acid, the procedure time, strength, and the assisting ingredients. Protocols vary depending on the product line. Advanced training and certification are necessary to perform glycolic treatments. The basic process consists of applying the product removing it within a few minutes. Exfoliation services are efficient and take less time than the more relaxing, in-depth facials.
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The procedure for AHAs
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Treatments can be scheduled in a series of four to eight sessions, one time per week for 4 to 8 weeks. More than eight weekly treatments in a row are not recommended. A series of treatments every 3 to 4 months is a typical recommendation. Treatments can also be scheduled once a month or as needed. The optimum facial maintenance schedule is once a month every 6 weeks. The schedule will depend on the product strength and the client's tolerance to AHAs.
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Beneficial ingredients to combine with chemical exfoliation-Mature or sensitive skin
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Mature and/or sensitive skin. Glycolic acid, lactic acid, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, phospholipids, linoleic acid, aloe vera, allantoin, kojic acid, licorice root, peptides.
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Beneficial ingredients to combine with chemical exfoliation-Hyperpigmentation
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Hyperpigmentation- Glycolic acid, kojic acid, licorice root, mulberry extract, bearberry extract, azelaic acid, ascorbic acid.
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Beneficial ingredients to combine with chemical exfoliation-Acne
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Acne-Glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, citric acid.
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The mini chemical exfoliation
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Do not perform this procedure without advance training and instructor supervision. It is included here as it is important to be familiar with the basic procedure. See Milady Standard Esthetics: Advanced textbook for the full procedure on peels and other advanced treatments. Follow the manufacturer's protocol for the strength and timing of the procedure.
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The mini chemical exfoliation
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1. Prepare and cleanse the skin. 2. Let the skin dry and put protective eye pads on. 3. Set the timer and give clients a fan to keep the skin cool if it feels itchy or warm during the peel. 4. Apply the product carefully with a large disposable cotton swab, two small disposable cotton swabs, or brush. Avoid the eyes. 5. Remove the product with cool cotton pads saturated with water. Rinse at least six times. 6. Ask the client if there are any warm or itchy areas to make sure all of the product is neutralized. 7. Apply a soothing product such as aloe vera or a calming cucumber mask. 8. Finish with a high-performance serum, moisturizer, and a sunscreen. 9. Rebook the next weekly treatment and remind the client how to take care of freshly exfoliated skin.
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Post chemical exfoliation home-care
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Discussion of home-care with clients includes issuing precautions and product advice. Clients should avoid the sun and additional exfoliation outside of the recommended home-care program. An example of a glycolic home-care product is a 5 percent cream in a moisturizer base. This product may be used every other day. It is put on under sunscreen or at night on dry skin "not damp". Water or moisture on the skin can make the cream more active and cause it to tingle or sting. Strong exfoliation does make the skin drier on the surface because the top layer is sloughed off, so keeping the skin hydrated is important. Make sure to communicate these points clearly to your clients. It can take approximately 6 weeks to notice a difference in the skin, but sometimes improvements are visible after only one session or 1 week of using the home-care products.
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Microdermabrasion
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Microdermabrasion is a form mechanical machine exfoliation that originated in Europe. Some of the first machines entered the U.S. market around 1995. Today, many microdermabrasion models are available for both the esthetician's and physician's use. These machines are utilized in many skin care clinics, spas, and medical offices.
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Microdermabrasion
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The microdermabrasion machine is a powerful electronic vacuum. Microdermabrasion is achieved by spraying high-grade microcrystals, composed of corundum powder or aluminum oxide, across the skin's surface through a hand piece. Crystals can also be used manually without the machine- this process is considered gentler on the skin. Other machines have hard applicators, such as diamond tips, applied without crystals.
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Microdermabrasion
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The microdermabrasion technique is similar to running the vacuum/suction machine across the face. Crystals are first sprayed on the skin through the hand piece, and then vacuumed off after spraying application is complete. Microdermabrasion treatments are quick 30-minute services that can be offered alone or as part of a facial. A quick hydrating and nourishing mask is usually part of exfoliation treatments.
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Microdermabrasion benefits
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Microdermabrasion can be used to diminish the following conditions: sun damage, pigmentation, open and closed comedones, fine lines and wrinkles, enlarged pores, and coarsely textured skin. In addition to the typical exfoliation benefits, the vacuum mechanism stimulates cell metabolism and blood flow. Those who cannot tolerate acids may be candidates for microdermabrasion.
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Microdermabrasion benefits
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The difference between AHAs and microdermabrasion is that AHAs are chemical and penetrate into the epidermis. The AHA product and penetration into the skin have many benefits. Microdermabrasion is a mechanical method of exfoliation. it exfoliates the epidermis more effectively than 30 percent AHA product does, but the benefits of the chemical products are not produced. For example, acids penetrate into the skin and stimulate cell mitosis and the cell turnover rate more than microdermabrasion.
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Microdermabrasion benefits
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The vacuum used in microdermabrasion does stimulate cell metabolism and circulation. Generally, you can think of microdermabrasion as a more effective tool for surface exfoliation and AHAs as more effective below the surface. Using both peels and microdermabrasion in a treatment series is a common practice.
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Microdermabrasion cautions
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Technique plays a vital role in creating a positive outcome with the microdermabrasion machine. Proper use of the hand piece, rate of crystal flow, and vacuum setting all contribute to a successful treatment. Do not use microdermabrasion so aggressively that the client is uncomfortable. Once the skin shows erythema or redness, this is considered the stopping point for the procedure.
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Microdermabrasion cautions
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A series of treatments that incorporate complementary products, along with a complete home-care program, makes the difference in obtaining the best results. Topical vitamins and antioxidants are even more effective when used after exfoliation procedures. The esthetician's professional expertise in analyzing the skin and recommending the best program help make these procedures safe and effective.
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Microdermabrasion cautions
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Improper use of microdermabrasion can actually cause hypopigmentation and hyperpigmentation. it can also lead to sensitivity and other problems. Any strong exfoliation procedure requires sun abstinence and daily sunscreen. Microdermabrasion is not recommended for sensitive or couperose skin, rosacea, or for those with a predisposition to pigmentation problems.
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Microdermabrasion cautions
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Reading a manual does not provide instant experience in using this machine. Training and certification are absolutely mandatory. Microdermabrasion machines should be used by licensed, trained skin care professional only. New technology for microdermabrasion devices and those similar to microdermabrasion is constantly emerging.
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Microdermabrasion equipment and maintenance
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Daily care and proper use will prevent unnecessary machine repairs. Microdermabrasion machines consist of internal motors, hoses, filters, and hand pieces. Hoses and hand pieces must be dry so that the crystals will flow properly. Use only the crystals recommended by the manufacturer. It is not necessary to overuse crystals to obtain good results.
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Microdermabrasion equipment and maintenance
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A constant, even flow of crystals will give a smooth and effective treatment. Crystals should flow onto the skin's surface only. Avoid breathing the crystals or getting them in the eyes or nose. Carefully clean up crystals while wearing rubber gloves and a mask. Machines that have separate crystal containers for both clean and used crystals are preferred. This way the used crystals stay contained and do not come into contact with the technician. These sealed containers are safer to dispose of properly. Follow the manufacturer's directions for disposal and maintenance. The treatment room and linens also need to be cleaned and checked for crystal residue and contamination.
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Laser technology
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Lasers are medical devices used for hair removal and skin treatments. Lasers are high-powered devices that use intense pulses of electromagnetic radiation and single wavelength at one time. Different wavelengths affect different components of the skin. These different treatments can stimulate collagen production, reduce spider veins, reduce hair growth, or peel skin.
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Laser technology
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All lasers and light therapy methods use selective "photothermolysis". Lasers emit light waves of the same wavelength, while non-laser photo devices, such as IPL, use a spectrum of different wavelengths. For skin rejuvenation, heating and damaging the dermal tissue stimulates fibroblasts to repair and rebuild tissue such as collagen. A laser is a precise tool used for surgical procedures. in laser skin resurfacing, pulsed lasers are so precise that they can be directed to "burn" off the surface of the skin without even touching the lower dermis.
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Laser technology
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A laser produces colored light. Wavelengths are selected to treat a range of skin conditions. For instance, one laser is designed to produce yellow light. A yellow light will selectively absorb into the color red. The laser light passes harmlessly through the skin and targets only hemoglobin of the red blood cell. The laser energy then heats and destroys the cell, leaving the normal skin cell completely intact.
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Laser technology
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Lasers are now more commonly used for noninvasive procedures. Lasers include the alexandrite, diode, and Nd:YAG lasers. Another treatment is referred to as "photodynamic" therapy and is best for primarily treating actinic keratoses. many manufacturers have different names for their devices and specific treatments, which can be confusing. New devices are constantly coming on the market.
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Laser technology
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Lasers combined with radio frequencies are considered to be even more effective. This combined energy technology targets and heats connective tissue to stimulate collagen production and produce a firming effect. Radio waves of a certain frequency penetrate and are absorbed by the tissues. The strong damaging heat effect is what promotes skin healing and tightening. It is also effective for hair removal and used for cellulite reduction.
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Laser technology
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The effect of using radio waves to the skin is a similar process to how a microwave cooks food. Medical devices that use this technology are very strong, while those sold for home use are much weaker. Lasers and light therapy are advanced topics. It is not necessary at this stage to learn all of the details concerning these devices. They are mentioned to familiarized you with the technology, which continues to evolve.
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Light therapy
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Light therapy is the application of light rays to the skin for the treatment of wrinkles, capillaries, pigmentation, or hair removal. Light therapy uses different types of devices: lasers, intense pulsed light IPL, and light-emitting diode LED technologies. The power and effectiveness of the machine vary and depend on such factors as the wavelength, heat, and penetration power.
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Light therapy
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Lasers and IPL are strong machines that are rated as Class IV medical devices by the Food and Drug Administration FDA. LED is rated as a safer Class I or II device and is regulated less strictly. The range of wavelengths used in light therapy are visible, infrared, and far infrared. Lasers such as Nd:YAG tighten skin and reduce wrinkles and spider veins. Intense pulsed light devices use pulses of multiple wavelengths to reduce pigmentation, remove surface capillaries, and rejuvenate the skin. Intense pulse light emits light absorbed by hemoglobin "vascular", melanin "pigmented lesions", or hair follicles "hair removal".
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Light therapy
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LED technology is nonthermal, meaning it does not use heat. Estheticians use LED light for skin rejuvenation. LED individual wavelengths are used at low intensity and are not as strong as the laser and intense pulse light modalities. LED uses visible light such as blue, red, or amber, and infrared "invisible". Different colors of light produce different effects on the skin. Blue light is considered effective in treating acne. Amber and red are used for muscles and healing.
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Light therapy
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Infrared is used for rejuvenation. Infrared light is also used to detoxify the body and reduce pain. LED is used for photosynthesis because it converts light to cellular energy that stimulates the body's collagen and metabolism. Photorejuvenation is another term used for the growing technology that utilizes light therapy to enhance the skin.
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Light therapy
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Light therapy such as infrared heat has been used for years to treat physical conditions such as pain and to promote healing. LED has been shown to help the lymph system and increase ATP energy production in the cells. Therapeutic lamps are also used for light therapy. Color therapy uses different colors of light for various psychological effects: red is considered stimulating, while green is calming.
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Light therapy
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LEDs are used in facials for approximately 15 minutes. Eye goggles are used to protect both the technician's and client's eyes. Hand-held devices are increasingly popular. The use of machines, light therapy, and medical aesthetics continues to develop. Scientific discoveries and advances are changing the face of the antiaging industry.
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Microcurrent machines
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Modern medicine utilizes microcurrent to treat many conditions, such as Bell's palsy and stroke paralysis. The growing uses of microampere electrical neuromuscular stimulation include healing muscles and wounds, controlling pain, and even fusing bones. There is even greater potential for this type of therapy. In the esthetics realm, microcurrent is used to tone the muscles by stimulating motor nerves and contracting the muscles.
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Facial benefits of microcurrent machines
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Microcurrent, or wave therapy, devices mimic the way the brain relays messages to the muscles. In esthetics, microcurrent is used primarily to tone and stimulate facial muscles. Considered a passive form of exercise, this therapeutic technique helps stimulate motor nerves until a contraction of the muscles can be seen.
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Facial benefits of microcurrent machines
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Microcurrent has the ability to firm muscles and boost cellular activity. It improves blood and lymph circulation and can also assist with product absorption. In the past, the faradic current has been used to stimulate motor nerves.
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Facial benefits of microcurrent machines
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Many biological processes are associated with electrical impulses. Facial skin tone and muscles are all related to this system. As we age, impulses slow down, causing the skin to sag. Muscles may not completely contract after use, such as in the case of sagging jowls "jaw muscles". The same effect can be seen on the rest of the body as well. That is why exercise and stretching are extremely important as one age.
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Facial benefits of microcurrent machines
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Microcurrent is thought to aid in the healing and repairing of tissue and influence metabolism. It works gently and helps speed up the natural regenerative processes of the body when the correct intensity of current and frequency is used. Treatment results are expected to show firmer and healthier skin.
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Facial benefits of microcurrent machines
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Microcurrent devices are designed to work in harmony with the natural bioelectrical currents found in the body. The standard technique utilizes two hand-held probes placed on facial muscle groups. A specific movement technique is used on all of the designated facial points. A gel, such as a collagen ampoule, is placed on the skin before beginning the treatment. The electrical current is regulated according to the skin's resistance.
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Facial benefits of microcurrent machines
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Treatments are given one time per week for at least 10 sessions to see visible results. Treatments must be given every 4 weeks to maintain the benefits and results. Some models of hand-held devices are combined with ultrasound technology for additional penetration and added exfoliation effects.
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Facial benefits of microcurrent machines
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Microcurrent combined with light therapy can be even more effective. When using any electrical device, you should obtain a complete client health history and conduct a consultation before treatment. Contraindications are the same as those described for other electrical devices. As with all electrical current devices, microcurrent should not be used on clients with the following health conditions: pacemaker, epilepsy, cancer, pregnancy, phlebitis, or thrombosis; or on anyone currently under a doctor's care for a condition that may be contraindicated.
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Ultrasound and Ultrasonic
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Ultrasound and ultrasonic are synonymous terms referring to a frequency that is above the range of sound audible to the human ear. This equipment uses noninvasive sound waves to create results-oriented treatments.
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Ultrasonic
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Ultrasonic equipment is based on high-frequency mechanical oscillations produced by a metal spatula-like tool. The vibrations, created through a water medium, help cleanse and exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells. Ultrasound contraindications include epilepsy, pregnancy, and cancerous lesions. Like all machines, overuse can be damaging.
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Ultrasound
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Ultrasound technology in esthetics is also used for product penetration and for cellulite reduction. Ultrasound is deep-penetrating-it stimulates tissue, increases blood flow, and promotes oxygenation. Keep in mind that the lower the frequency, the greater the penetration; conversely, a higher frequency has less penetration.
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Ultrasound
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Cellulite is affected through the heat manipulation of the tissue and lymphatic movements performed with the device. Heat is created, and the vibration in the cells stimulates circulation, metabolism, and lymphatic drainage. The heat damage from ultrasound and other modalities "such as lasers" is what stimulates collagen production.
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Ultrasound
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Ultrasound also sends waves through the skin to assist in product penetration. This process is called "sonophoresis", which is similar to iontophoresis "iontophoresis uses electrically charged ions, so an electrical charge is needed from electrodes". Some esthetic ultrasound equipment is rated as an FDA Class II device and may not be within an esthetician's scope of practice outside of a medical facility.
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Ultrasound
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Advanced training and technical research on equipment claims are necessary before using and advanced esthetic machine. Different frequencies of ultrasound are also used for medical imaging, physical therapy, and pain management. Lower-frequency ultrasonic devices are used for toothbrushes and jewelry cleaners. Hand-held devices for a consumer's personal skin care that are used at home are milder but should be used in moderation to avoid damaging the skin.
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Spa body treatments
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Spa treatments provide a wonderful, relaxing experience. Body treatments have a therapeutic effect and treat the skin of the whole body. They include wraps, scrubs, and masks. Be mindful of contraindications and allergies to ingredients "seaweed, nuts" before working on clients.
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Body wraps
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Body wraps are treatments where the product is applied on the body and then covered or wrapped up. Wraps are used for various reasons and can either remineralize, hydrate, stimulate, detoxify, or promote relaxation. The product used will determine the effects and results. Aloes, gels, lotions, oils, seaweed, herbs, clay, or mud products can all be used for wraps.
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Body wraps
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Linens or plastic can be used to wrap clients and to promote product penetration. Blankets or sheets are the cocoons of the "wraps." Inch-loss wraps, another type of wrap, are designed to flush toxins out of the body and promote inch loss. Inch-loss wraps have a diuretic effect and are controversial in their effectiveness. If done properly, detoxifying the body may aid in weight reduction.
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Body scrubs
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Body scrubs use friction to exfoliate and hydrate, increase circulation, and nourish skin using a combination of ingredients such as ground nuts, apricot kernels, cornmeal, jojoba beads, honey, salt, or sugar combined with oil or lotion. Exfoliation treatments are also called polishes and a glow. Exfoliation prepares the skin to receive additional products or treatments. Dry brushing is also beneficial and is used to exfoliate and stimulate the skin.
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Body masks
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Body masks remineralize and detoxify the body using primarily clay, mud, or seaweed mixtures. Certain body masks are used to treat cellulite. Clients are usually wrapped up after the mask application, and thus masks are similar to wraps. The ingredients and procedure used in the treatment determine whether the process is called a mask or a wrap.
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Hydrotherapy
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Hydrotherapy is another spa treatment that uses water in its three forms "ice, steam, and liquid". Hydrotherapy tubs, the Scotch hose, Vichy shower, Watsu massage, Hot tubs, Steam rooms, Saunas, The cold plunge pool, Foot soaks, and Whirlpool baths are all different forms of hydrotherapy found in spas.
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Balneotherapy
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Balneotherapy is the treatment of physical ailments using therapeutic water baths. Mineral, mud or fango, Dead sea salt, seaweed, enzymes, or peat are all used in baths "balneum is latin for baths".
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Stone massage
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Stone massage is the technique of using hot stones and cold stones in massage or other treatments. Facial stone massage can be incorporated into regular facials.
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Foot reflexology
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Foot reflexology is the technique of applying pressure to the feet based on a system of zones and areas on the feet that directly correspond to the anatomy of the body. Reflexology is performed on the feet, hands, and ears as these are the areas that correspond to the body zones. It causes relaxation, increased circulation, and balance to the entire body. Estheticians are not usually trained in reflexology, so be aware of our scope of practice and licensing regulations. Reflexology is generally performed by a licensed massage therapist. Massage can be dangerous if performed incorrectly.
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Ayurveda
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Ayurvedic concepts are based on three doshas, or mind and body types. Treatments include "Shirodhara", massage, and facials using ancient Indian concepts and ingredients suited to the three body/mind types: Pitta, Kapha, and Vatta. Ayurveda originated over 5,000 years ago in India. It is a philosophy of medicine and balancing life and the body through various methods ranging from massage to eating habits.
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Ayurveda
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Ayur means "life", vital power"; Veda means "knowledge." Ayurveda translates from Sanskrit as "science of health or wellness". Shirodhara is an ayurvedic treatment that consists of running warm oil on the third-eye area of the forehead for 30 minutes. This relaxing, meditative process releases stress and calms the mind.
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Sunless tanning
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Sunless tanning product application is a service offered as an alternative to tanning. It is sprayed on or applied manually.
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Endermology
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Endermology is a treatment for cellulite. It helps stimulate the reduction of adipose tissue by a vacuum massage that combines a vigorous massage along with suction. Machines and other endermology methods are used in spas and in medical facilities.
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Body treatment procedures
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The following procedures briefly outline how the spa treatments are performed. Advanced training is needed to perform these treatments safely and efficiently. There are contraindications to be aware of and many variables in body treatments. Body services are wonderful treatments to offer to clients.
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The mini body scrub
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The body scrub- This procedure describes a basic body scrub. Follow the instructor's and manufacturer's directions for preparing the scrub. Prepare the supplies per the instructions. 1. Use the prepackaged body exfoliating product, or mix either salt or sugar with lotion or oil. Mix until the desired consistency is reached. Add two drops of aromatherapy oil if desired. A high-quality unrefined salt or sugar is recommended.
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The mini body scrub
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Make sure the product is not too coarse or rough. Make sure your product rinses off easily because this treatment generally does not require a shower after the service. Prepare the bed with linens while the product and towels are warming in the hot cabbie. It is important to keep the room warm for the client's comfort.
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The mini body scrub
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2. Use a set pattern to apply the warm product, starting with the lower legs and using circular motions upwards toward the heart. Exfoliate the body using the hands, a brush, or a mitt "keep adding warm water if necessary". Most body products are applied first to the legs, followed by the arms, then the torso and back. Work on the right side first, then the left. Move from the bottom to the top of each area. To keep the client warm, cover each area with a sheet or body towel before proceeding to the next area.
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The mini body scrub
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3. Remove the scrub in the same order "legs, arms torso" with warm, wet towels. Pat dry and cover each area before moving to the next to keep the client warm. 4. Optional: Finish by spraying the treated area with a skin freshener and apply lotion if time permits. Note: A body wrap treatment can also follow a scrub.
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The mini body wrap or mask
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The body wrap or mask, Use a body lotion, seaweed, or mud. 1. A dry brush or body scrub can be performed before the wrap or mask. 2. Apply the product "per manufacturer's instructions" with hands or a body "paint" brush. Follow the same pattern as the scrub application. 3. Wrap the client for 20 to 30 minutes. Check-in with the client regarding their comfort level. Are they warm enough or too warm? Do they feel claustrophobic?
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The mini body wrap or mask
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4. Add a facial or foot treatment, if desired, during the wrap. 5. Remove the product with warm towels if applicable, or have the client shower. Note: Never leave the client alone in the room as they may have become uncomfortable or react to the product. An add-on service can be performed to the face or feet while the wrap is processing. This saves time and increases the value of the service.
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Cellulite
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Cellulite appears as dimpled or bumpy skin caused primarily by female hormones and genetics. Cellulite consists of fat cells. Dermal fat cells do swell, but that is not the only cause of cellulite. Cellulite is visible when dermal fat cells are closer to the dermis. If water is lost and the tissue is weakened, then dermal fat begins to push into the dermis. Additionally, if the epidermis is weakened or dehydrated, cellulite is more visible.
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Cellulite
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Keeping collagen and elastin healthy helps reduce cellulite. To repair cellulite, cells, and connective tissue needs to be strengthened and hydrated through nutrients and water intake. Drinking water is not enough- our cells have to be able to hold onto the water. Wasted water in the body builds up and leads to water retention and puffiness. Blood flow and the circulation of nutrients through blood vessels up to the skin also affect cellulite. Repairing cell damage, connective tissue damage, and stratum corneum damage is important in treating cellulite.
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Cellulite-nutrients and ingredients
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The following recommended nutrients and ingredients may be beneficial for cellulite reduction: Lecithin and lipids for cell walls. Glycosaminoglycans GAGs for moisturizing and firming. Glucosamine to build GAGs and connective tissue. B vitamins to retain moisture and provide nutrients. Amino acids for building collagen and elastin. Essential fatty acids to attract water for the connective tissue. Antioxidants. Anti-inflammatories. Aloe vera is anti-inflammatory, improves hydration, and contains enzymes and minerals. AHAs. Alpha lipoic acid.
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Cellulite
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The effectiveness of some endermology treatments is controversial. Detox diets, liposuction, and muscle-stimulating systems do not minimize cellulite. Some body wraps result in only temporary water loss. Electronic devices with vacuums may reduce cellulite temporarily.
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Cellulite
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Manual lymph drainage, mesotherapy "microinjection into the dermis to melt fat", dermal fillers, lasers, chemical peels, and microdermabrasion have all been tried to help reduce cellulite. Most of these techniques are considered temporary, and their effectiveness varies. Increasing blood flow, stimulating collagen and elastin, attracting water to cells, and repairing cell membranes are recommended to reduce cellulite.
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Cellulite
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Additionally reducing wasted water, preventing free radical damage, and reducing inflammation is a healthy approach to treating cellulite and the skin. Exercise, along with a healthy low-fat diet with a reduced intake of processed foods, is thought to help reduce cellulite. Professional cellulite treatments must be performed consistently in continuous sessions. A common spa treatment consists of exfoliation with a scrub or dry brushing followed by a detoxifying mask and wrap. These stimulate the metabolism and circulation. To finish the service, a cellulite treatment cream is applied.
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Cellulite
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Exfoliation and skin brushing is also good for vessels and circulation. Another popular treatment is "thalassotherapy". Thalassotherapy is the use of seawater as a form of therapy. Therapeutic benefits from sea and seawater products include many minerals and nutrients. Massage can also help soften hardened cellulite. Cellulite is a common condition for most women, and improving the health of the skin is a continual process.
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Manual lymph drainage
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Manual lymph drainage MLD stimulates lymph fluid to flow through the lymphatic vessels. This technique helps to cleanse and detoxify the body. Congestion, water, and waste in the vessels create edema in the tissue. Moving this fluid out of the body with light massage movements will decrease the swelling from excess fluid. MLD is a great addition to a facial. It is also used both before and after surgery because it expedites healing and enhances cell metabolism. Mechanical lymph drainage is a very beneficial MLD service performed with machines. Advanced training courses in MLD are available for both estheticians and massage therapist.
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Medical aesthetics
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Aesthetics is a multibillion-dollar industry. The industry is constantly developing new products and services for our youth-oriented society. Plastic surgery, laser treatments, and injectables focus on maintaining a youthful appearance. Medical aesthetics integrates surgical and nonsurgical procedures with esthetic treatments. estheticians also perform services such as peels, microdermabrasion, and light therapy. Some assist in the medical procedures and monitor patient recovery.
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Medical aestheticians
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Additionally recommended home-care products help patients heal faster and maintain their skin's health. Because medical aesthetics is evolving, the esthetician's role can be shaped to fit the facility's needs. Each setting varies, so it is important to define the responsibilities included in the esthetician's job description.
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Medical aestheticians
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Medical aestheticians are well trained, experienced, and in some cases certified; however, not all estheticians must be certified to work in medical aesthetics. Most clinical procedures must be done in a medical office under a physician's supervision. Medispas are medical clinics and spas combined in one location and offer both esthetic and medical services.
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Medical aestheticians
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The most popular medical spa services are chemical peels, microdermabrasion, Botox, fillers, laser hair removal, and light therapy/photorejuvenation. Estheticians are not qualified to perform certain procedures, but it is important to be familiar with all of them because many clients will be asking questions and utilizing these procedures. Society is now flooded with information on medical aesthetics. It is part of modern society's continued quest for instant gratification and maintaining physical beauty. Medical spas are a fast-growing segment of the beauty industry...
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Pre- and postoperative care
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Esthteicians perform pre- and post-operative treatments and provide patient education before cosmetic surgery. These are important for faster patient recovery time. Estheticians also provide facials, light peels, extractions, and microdermabrasion prior to surgery. Camouflage makeup, retail sales, and patient home-care counseling are other responsibilities in medical aesthetics.
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Pre- and postoperative care
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Preoperative care focuses on preparing the skin for a procedure. Getting the skin in its optimum state and as healthy as possible makes the surgery less traumatic on the tissue and shortens recovery time. Increasingly the skin's metabolism and reducing cellular debris on the surface are part of conditioning the skin. Helping the patient stay calm is also a role the esthetician can fill. A plan and schedule for pre and post-op care are outlined by the medical staff before a patient's surgery.
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Pre- and postoperative care
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Post-op care includes providing skin care for rapid wound healing and the avoidance of infection. Decreasing inflammation, soothing and moisturizing, and providing for sun protection are the goals. Massage, hydration, protection, and camouflage makeup are all part of post-op care. Home-care instructions for long-term maintenance are also important. Permanent makeup sometimes referred to as "micro-pigmentation", is another technique utilized in clinical aesthetics.
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Microdermabrasion and chemical peels
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Glycolic treatments can be performed to precondition the skin before laser resurfacing or surgery. These "lunch time peels" can enhance the strength and barrier function of the epidermis. Microdermabrasion benefits to the epidermis are similar to those provided by AHA treatments, although the effects are more superficial.
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Documentation
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The patient charts are a record of what the patient conveys, what the esthetician observes, the assessment and analysis, and a plan of action for treatment. Protocols for clinical procedures are followed. Patient informed consent forms and treatment records are required and are part of the standard charting procedure.
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Other clinical procedures
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Numerous opportunities for estheticians are found in specialized clinical settings. Laser and medical centers offer hair reduction, spider vein removal, non-ablative "non-wounding" wrinkle treatments, and other types of laser procedures. Non-ablative procedures do not remove tissue. Non-ablative wrinkle treatments use intense pulsed light IPL to bypass the epidermis and stimulate collagen in the dermis to promote wrinkle reduction. Estheticians can assist physicians in these procedures if the technician is properly trained and certified.
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Injectables
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Botox and dermal fillers are injectables that are a large part of the industry. Injectables have become the fastest-growing product in the medical spa industry. Injectable fillers are substances used in nonsurgical procedures to fill or plump up areas of the skin. FDA approved fillers are nontoxic, durable, biocompatible, and easy to use-these are the necessary attributes of a safe filler.
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Botox
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Botox injection is a popular nonsurgical clinical service. Botox is a neuromuscular-blocking serum "botulinum toxin" that paralyzes nerve cells in the muscle when the serum is injected into it. Botox is injected into the muscles to cause paralysis or diminished movement by blocking neurotransmitters. This relaxes tissues and diminishes lines. The glabella is the area between the eyebrows where muscles cause creasing from squinting or frowning. The glabella has strong muscles and is the most common site for Botox injections. Millions of Botox injections are performed annually in the United States.
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Dermal fillers
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Dermal fillers are used to fill lines, wrinkles, and other facial imperfections. As we age, dermal collagen, hyaluronic acid, and fat "lipotrophy" are lost and skin loses its shape. The first fillers were from animal sources, specifically bovine collagen. Collagen treatments use a filler, usually a bovine "cow" derivative, to fill in wrinkles or to make lips larger. Dermal fillers will last longer when used in conjunction with Botox.
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Dermal fillers
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Today's fillers are obtained from a variety of sources. Many are combined substances and materials. Collagen may be derived from human or animal sources. Synthetic sources are silicone and hyaluronic acids HAs. The newest trend is to use both non-animal "Restylane" and animal-base "Hylaform" hyaluronic acid fillers. Juvederm is one of the many cross-linked HA fillers. Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide found in the body and connective tissues. A component of the skin's natural moisturizing function, it holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Cross-linking is a process where ingredients are combined to increase the stability and durability of the products.
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Dermal fillers
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Another type of filler is aqueous calcium "Radiesse FN", which is calcium-based. Another injectable is not a filler, but a dermal stimulator called poly-L-lactic acid PLLA. This product "marketed as Sculptra" increases fibroblast activity and collagen production. New products are coming on the market regularly.
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Surgical procedures
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There are two types of surgery: reconstructive and cosmetic.
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Reconstructive surgery
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Reconstructive surgery is defined as "restoring a bodily function. " This type of surgery is necessary for accident survivors and those with congenital disfigurements or other diseases.
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Cosmetic surgery
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Cosmetic surgery also known as esthetic surgery is elective surgery for improving and altering the appearance.
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Cosmetic surgical procedures
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Common plastic surgery procedures are facelifts, forehead lifts, eye lifts, nose reconstruction, laser resurfacing, and deep peels.
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The rhytidectomy-face lift
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A rhytidectomy is a facelift. This procedure removes excess fat at the jawline; tightens loose, atrophic muscles; and removes sagging skin.
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A forehead lift-brow lift
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A forehead lift also called a brow lift can be performed separately or in combination with and eyelift.
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A blepharoplasty-eye lift
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A blepharoplasty is an eye lift. It removes fat and skin from the upper and lower lids, making them less baggy and crinkled-looking. When sagging eyelids impede a patient's ability to see, it is a medical condition that may be covered by insurance.
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A transconjunctival blepharoplasty-inside lower eyelid
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A transconjunctival blepharoplasty is performed inside the lower eyelid to remove bulging fat pads, which are often congenital.
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Rhinoplasty-nose surgery
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Rhinoplasty is nose surgery that makes a nose smaller or changes the appearance in some way. Sometimes rhinoplasty is necessary for health reasons and to improve the patients breathing ability.
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Laser resurfacing-smooth wrinkles and lighten scars
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Laser resurfacing is used to smooth wrinkles to lighten acne scars. Collagen remodeling stimulates the growth of new collagen in the dermis. This type of laser treatment removes the epidermal layer and requires a recovery period.
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Dermabrasion-physically remove tissue down to the dermis
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Dermabrasion is a strong exfoliation method that uses a mechanical brush to physically remove tissue down to the dermis. It is a very deep exfoliation used primarily on scars. Lasers are replacing the use of this medical procedure. Do not confuse dermabrasion with microdermabrasion. Microdermabrasion is a mild, superficial mechanical exfoliation.
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Trichloroacetic acid TCA peels for sun damage and wrinkles
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Trichloroacetic acid is a deep peel used for sun damage and wrinkles.
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Phenol-can be toxic
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Phenol peels are the strongest peels and can be toxic. They are still used and are less expensive, but they require a longer recovery period than a TCA peels or laser resurfacing.
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Body procedures
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Many individuals are having elective surgeries. It is, therefore, important to be familiar with these procedures, especially if you are offering body treatments.
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Sclerotherapy
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Sclerotherapy minimizes varicose veins "dilated blood vessels" and other varicosities by injecting chemical agents into the affected areas. Lasers are a secondary method of vein therapy. Over 50 percent of women have varicose veins and small spider veins "telangiectasia" on their legs.
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Sclerotherapy
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Potential causes are heredity, race, gender, posture, hormones, and pregnancy. Trauma and injury cause inflammation to vessels. Phlebitis is the inflammation of a vein. To take pressure off veins keep the legs elevated, wear compression stockings, avoid crossing the legs, exercise, and avoid being in stationary positions for long periods of time.
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Mammoplasty-breast surgery
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Mammoplasty is breast surgery that enlarges the breasts or reconstructs them. This procedure is also referred to as breast argumentation or implants. Breast reduction reduces or repositions the breasts. This sometimes performed for health reasons, primarily to alleviate back pain.
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Liposuction-removes pockets of fat.
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Liposuction is the procedure that surgically removes pockets of fat.
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Abdominoplasty-tuck and tighten the area
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An abdominoplasty removes excessive fat deposits and loose skin from the abdomen to tuck and tightens the area.
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The clinical aesthetician
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Working as a clinical aesthetician in medical aesthetics can be enriching. This specialty requires compassion and patience because you will work with people who are in pain or who are experiencing physical trauma.
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The clinical aesthetician
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Many patients feel more comfortable with the aesthetician than they do with a physician, who may not have the time for more personal and empathetic discussions. Remember to stay focused on the treatment goals and maintain a professional role at all times. The role of an aesthetician can be invaluable in a medical setting in providing pre- and postoperative care and other patient services and education.
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The clinical aesthetician
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A career in aesthetics is always exciting and fascinating. Advanced areas of study range from medical aesthetics to exotic body treatments. Utilizing AHAs and light therapy for skin care are two of the most effective tools available today to aestheticians. The opportunity for advanced training is limitless.
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The clinical aesthetician
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There are many services one can specialize in. As the industry continues to grow, keep up with new technology and changes, even if they are not on your service menu. After basic esthetic techniques are mastered, it is a natural progression to add advanced treatments to the services currently offered. This is the beauty of esthetics: The increased ability to improve the health of the skin as the industry evolves. Educated and skilled technicians will always be in demand.
