Milady Chapter 20 – Study Guide – Flashcards
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Chemical texture service
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Chemically altering the natural wave of the hair
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Cortex
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Responsible for strength and elasticity
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Most common neutralizer
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Hydrogen peroxide
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Base direction
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The angle to which the rod is positioned on the head
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Straight rods
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Equal in diameter
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Bricklay
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Has base sections that are offset from each other
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Weave technique
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Uses zig-zag patterns to divide base areas
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On base placement
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Causes most stress and tension on hair
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Half-off base placement
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Minimizes stress and tension on hair
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Croquignole wrap
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Wrapped ends to scalp
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Double rod wrap
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Piggy-back wrap
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Bookend wrap
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Uses one paper folded in half
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Double flat wrap
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Uses two papers, gives the most control
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Shape and type of curl
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Determined by the rod and wrapping method
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Size of curl
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Determined by size of rod
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Reduction reaction
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Created by the addition of hydrogen
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Reduction
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When the solution breaks the disulfide bonds
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Hydrogen bonds
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Broken by water and re-formed when dry
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Thiogyocolic Acids
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The most common reducing agents
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Glyceryl Monothioglycolate
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The main ingredient in acid balanced perms
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3 components in acid balanced perms
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Waving lotion, activator, and neutralizer
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Amonium thiogolcate
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The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms
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the pH scale
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Ranges from 0 to 14
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pH in most acid perms
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7.8 to 8.2
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pH in most alkaline perms
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9.0 to 9.6
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highly alkaline solution
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Used for coarse resistant hair
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Alkaline waves
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Cold waves
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Raising the pH
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Softens and swells the hair shaft
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Exothermic waves
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Create their own heat
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Endothermic waves
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Heat must be added
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Disulfide bonds
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Chemical side bonds that form when two sulfur type chains join together
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Too many broken disulfide bonds
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The hair is over-processed and will not hold a curl
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Thio neutralization
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Stops the action of the permanent wave solution and rebuilds hair into its new form
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Thio-free waves
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Use and ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine
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Soft curl perm
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A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio perm wrapped on a large rod
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Chemical hair relaxing
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The process of rearranging the basic hair structure of curly hair into a straighter, smoother form
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Hydrogen ion
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The active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
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Hydroxide relaxers
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Remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond, converting it into a lanthonine bond
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Metal hydroxide relaxers
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Contain only one ingredient and are used without mixing
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Sodium relaxers
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Lye relaxers
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Potassium hydroxide relaxers
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No mix-no lye relaxers
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Guanidine hydroxide relaxers
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Have two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use
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No base relaxers
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Do not require the application of a protective base cream
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Concentration of hydroxide
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Determines the strength in a chemical relaxer
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Application of a chemical relaxer
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Should be started in the most resistant area- usually the back of the head
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Insufficiently relaxed
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During a relaxer strand test, hair that is pressed to the scalp and continues to curl
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Normalizing lotion
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A conditioner with an acidic pH that restores hairs natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer
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Hair treated with a hydroxide relaxer
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Cannot be treated with a thio relaxer, and is unfit for perming
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Japanese thermal straightening
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Combines a thio relaxer with a flat iron
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Keratin straightening treatments
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Fix the keratin in place in a semi-permanent manner. No bonds are broken
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Concentration of reducing agent
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Determines strength of any permanent wave
