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Firearm
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A firearm is a mechanical device that uses pressure from a BURNING POWDER to force a projectile through and out of a metal tube.
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Action
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Action: The action is the heart of the firearmâthe moving parts that LOAD, FIRE, and EJECT the shells or cartridges. Several types of actions are used in modern firearms. Muzzleloaders have LOCKS instead of actions.
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Stock
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Stock: The stock serves as the handle of the firearm. It can be composed of one or two pieces and is usually made of wood or a synthetic material.
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Barrel
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Barrel: The barrel is the metal tube that the projectile travels through (bullets travel through the barrels of rifles and handguns; shot travels through the barrel of shotguns).
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Bore
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Inside of the firearm barrel through which the projectile travels when fired
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Breech
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Rear end of the barrel
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Firing Pin
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A pin that strikes the primer of the cartridge, causing ignition
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Receiver
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Metal housing for the working parts of the action
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Shotguns
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Shotguns are another long-barreled firearm used by hunters. Most common: pump action
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Handguns
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Handguns (revolver and pistols) are short-barreled firearms sometimes used for hunting.
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Cartridge
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Ammunition used in modern rifles and handguns; a case containing primer, gunpowder, and a bullet. Single projectile bullet
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Shotshell
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Ammunition used in modern shotguns; a case containing primer, gunpowder, wad, and a slug or shot (shot or pellets). Shotguns use a shotshell containing either a single slug or a large number of small projectiles (shot or pellets).
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Case
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The container that holds all the other ammunition components together. It's usually made of brass, steel, copper, paper, or plastic.
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Primer
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An explosive chemical compound that ignites the gunpowder when struck by a firing pin. Primer may be placed either in the rim of the case (rimfire) or in the center of the base of the case (centerfire).
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Gunpowder
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A chemical mixture that burns rapidly and converts to an expanding gas when ignited. Modern smokeless powder will burn slowly when ignited in the open (outside of the case). Black powder is less stable and can be explosive when impacted or ignited in the open.
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Projectile
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The object(s) expelled from the barrel. A bullet is a projectile, usually containing lead, fired through a rifle or handgun barrel. A slug is a solid projectile, usually of lead, fired through a shotgun barrel. Shot is a group of lead, steel, tungsten alloy, or bismuth pellets fired through a shotgun barrel.
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Wad
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A seal and/or shot container made of paper or plastic separating the powder from the slug or shot in a shotshell. The wad prevents gas from escaping through the shot and holds the shot together as it passes through the barrel.
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Pointed soft point
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High velocity, accurate bullets with a flat travel path (trajectory); excellent mushrooming
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Rounded soft point
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Popular for low-velocity calibers; recommended for tubular magazines
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Projected Tip
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Highly accurate with excellent expansion
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Full metal jacket
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Maximum penetration without mushrooming; these bullets are illegal for big game hunting in most states
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Roundnose lead
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Good penetration, little expansion
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Full metal jacket (2)
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High penetration, no expansion
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Semi-wad cutter
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Balances penetration and expansion
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Hollowpoint
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Designed for high expansion on impact
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Wad cutter
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Flat-ended, used for target shooting; creates clean hole in paper
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Centerfire ammunition
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is used for rifles, shotguns, and handguns. In this type of ammunition, the primer is located in the center of the casing base. Most centerfire ammunition is reloadable.
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Rimfire ammunition
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has the primer contained in the rim of the ammunition casing. Rimfire ammunition is limited to low-pressure loads. Rimfire cartridges are not reloadable.
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Slug
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A slug is a solid projectile, usually of lead, used for hunting big game with a shotgun.
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Shot
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multiple pellets fired through a shotgun barrel. Shot size is adaptable to the game being hunted. This type of projectile is used typically to hunt game birds and small game animals.
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Gauge
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Term used to designate bore diameter of a shotgun; gauge is the number of lead balls with diameters equal to the diameter of the bore that, when combined, weigh one pound
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The smaller the shot number
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the larger the pellet diameter
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Magnum
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means the shell has more shot or more gunpowder than a regular shell. Magnum and regular shotshells are interchangeable if the correct gauge and shell length are used.
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Shot sizes
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Adaptable to the game that is being hunted. As pellet diameter decreases, more shot can be placed in a standard shotshell load. The smaller the shot number, the larger the shot size.
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Basic process of shooting a gun
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The same physical process is used to shoot shotshells from shotguns or cartridges from rifles or handguns. Pulling the trigger causes the firing pin to strike and explode the primer in the base of the cartridge or shotshell. The spark from the primer ignites the gunpowder, which burns rapidly and converts to a gas. The gas rapidly expands and drives the projectile(s) through the barrel with great force.
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How the rifle and handgun fire
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-A cartridge is inserted into the chamber -The action is closed, and the firing pin is pushed back and held back under spring tension. -The trigger is squeezed, releasing the firing pin, which moves forward with great force. The firing pin strikes the primer, causing it to explode. -The spark from the primer ignites the gunpowder. Gas converted from the burning powder rapidly expands in the cartridge. The expanding gas forces the bullet out of the cartridge and down the barrel with great speed. The rifling in the barrel causes the bullet to spin as it travels out of the barrel. The bullet's speed and escaping gases produce a \"bang.\"
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Riffling
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The grooved pattern cut into the bore of a rifle or handgun. The riffling in the barrel causes the bullet to spin as the bullet travels out of the barrel. This keeps it point-first in flight, increasing accuracy and distance.
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How the rifle fires
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-A cartridge is inserted into the chamber -The action is closed and the firing pin is pushed and held back under spring tension -The trigger is pulled, releasing the firing pin, which moves forward with great force. The firing pin strikes the primer, causing it to explode -The spark from the primer ignites the gunpowder. Gas converted from the burning powder rapidly expands in the cartridge -The expanding gas forces the bullet out of the cartridge and down the barrel with great speed -The riffling in the barrel causes the bullet to spin as the bullet travels out of the barrel. the bullet's speed and escaping gases produce a bang
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How the shotgun shoots
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-A shotshell is inserted into the chamber. Closing the action pushes the firing pin back and holds it under spring tension. -Pulling the trigger releases the firing pin. The firing pin strikes the primer producing sparks. -Heat and sparks from the primer ignite the gunpowder. Gas converted from the burning powder expands in the shell. The expanding gas forces the wad and shot out of the plastic body of the shell. -The escaping gases produce a \"bang\" as the wad and shot leave the barrel. The wad quickly opens and falls away. The shot cluster spreads. This spread is called the shot string.
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Action of the firearm
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The action of a firearm is made up of parts that load, unload, fire, and eject the shotshell or cartridge. Actions are either single-shot or repeating styles. Single-shot firearms must be reloaded each time the firearm is fired. Repeating firearms have extra cartridges or shotshells ready in a magazine, cylinder, or extra barrel.
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Bolt action
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A bolt-action firearm operates like opening and closing a door bolt. The bolt solidly locks into the breech, making it accurate and dependable. -To open the action, lift the handle up and pull it to the rear -If the firearm is loaded, the cartridge or shotshell will be ejected as you pull the bolt to the rear. To make sure it's unloaded, visually check BOTH the open action AND the magazine for extra cartridges or shotshells -You can store a bolt-action firearm safely by storing the bolt separately from the firearm
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Lever Action
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The lever-action firearm has a large metal lever located behind the trigger. This handle usually forms the trigger guard as well. -To open the action, push the lever downward and forward, which extracts the cartridge case from the chamber and ejects it. If a magazine holds extra cartridges, another is immediately ready to be loaded into the chamber. -It's often difficult to tell if a lever-action firearm is loaded. To unload, push the lever downward and forward repeatedly until no more cartridges are ejected. To make sure it's unloaded, visually check both the chamber and the magazine for additional cartridges. -Most models also have an exposed hammer, which requires extra caution. -Always use extra caution to keep your hands away from the trigger while working the lever action.
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Pump Action
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-The pump-action firearm is fast and smooth. It allows the shooter to re-cock the firearm without taking his or her eye off the target. The pump action also is referred to as \"slide action\" or \"trombone action.\" -To open the action, press the slide release and slide the forestock to the rear. This extracts the cartridge or shotshell from the chamber and ejects it. Sliding the forestock toward the muzzle closes the action and readies another cartridge or shell for loading. A pump-action firearm will open only after it's fired or if a release lever is pressed and the forestock is pulled to the rear. -To make sure it's unloaded, you must visually check both the chamber and the magazine for cartridges or shotshells.
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Semi-Automatic (or Autoloading) Action
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As each shot is fired manually, the case of the cartridge or shotshell is ejected automatically and the chamber is reloaded automatically. -To open the action, you must pull back the bolt's operating handle (on a rifle or shotgun) or the slide (on a pistol). Most semi-automatics, when the bolt or slide is pulled back, will lock in the open position if the magazine is empty. If the firearm does not lock open, it means that a cartridge or shotshell from the magazine has gone into the chamber, making the firearm ready to fire. A few semi-automatics do not lock open and must be held open to check the chamber. -To unload, first remove the magazine and lock the action open. Then make sure it's unloadedâvisually check the chamber for an additional cartridge or shell. -When closing the action for loading, pull back to unlock the bolt or slide and then let go, allowing it to travel forward on its own. Do not guide it forward with your hand because it may not seat properly. -On a semi-automatic, the trigger must be pulled each time a shot is fired. This makes the semi-automatic different from the fully-automatic firearm, which fires continuously as long as the trigger is held down. The fully-automatic firearm may not be used for hunting or sport shooting.
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Break (or hinge) Action
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The break-action firearm operates on the same principle as a door hinge. Simple to load and unload, a hinge action is often chosen as a hunter's first firearm. -To open the action, point the barrel(s) at the ground. A release is pressed, and the stock drops downward. This allows the cartridges or shotshells to eject or to be removed manually if the firearm is loaded. -Hinge-action firearms have a separate barrel for each shot rather than a magazine. Most models have one or two barrels, but some have up to four. -Some models also have an exposed hammer(s), which requires extra caution.
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Revolving Action
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Revolving cylinder containing a number of cartridge chambers. One chamber at a time lines up with the barrel as the firearm is fired. Revolving cylinders may rotate either clockwise or counterclockwise depending on the manufacture. This type of action usually is found on handguns but may be found on some older rifles. Revolving actions are referred to as either single or double action
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Single action
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Will fire only after the hammer has been cocked manually. means that the gun must be manually cocked for each shot (revolvers) or for the first shot (autoloaders), usually by pulling back the hammer or cycling the slide.
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Double action
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Pulling the trigger both cocks and releases the hammer. A double-action revolver typically also can be hammered-cocked like a single-action revolver.means that trigger movement cocks the action as the trigger is pulled during firing, but the gun can also be manually cocked like a single action. A gun which can be cocked only by trigger action (no manual cocking) is known by the term double-action-only.
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Common actions on rifles
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Single-shot rifles are usually break or bolt actions. Repeating rifles include the bolt-action, lever-action, pump-action, and semi-automatic types. Operating the lever, bolt, or forestock ejects the empty cartridge case, chambers a new round of ammunition, and cocks the gun.
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Common Actions on Shotguns
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Shotguns use many of the same actions as riflesâthe pump action, semi-automatic action, and bolt action. They also use a break action as either a single barrel or double barrels. The double barrels can be arranged horizontally (side-by-side) or vertically (over-under).
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Common Actions on Handguns
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Handguns fall into two basic types: revolvers (that fire from a revolving cylinder), and pistols (all other types, including auto-loading and single-shot handguns).
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Safety
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A safety is a device that blocks the action to prevent the firearm from shooting until the safety is released or pushed to the \"off\" position. The safety is intended to prevent the firearm from being fired accidentally. However, safeties should never be relied on totally to protect against accidental shooting. Safeties are mechanical devices and subject to mechanical failure from wear and other factors, and can fail when least expected. Also, safeties can be bumped from the safe position unknowingly as your firearm is being handled or as it catches on clothing or tree branches.
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Location of Safeties
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All safeties are located around the receiver of the firearm and are usually easy to spot. The red outlines indicate where safeties typically are located on rifles, shotguns, and handguns.
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Cross-Bolt Safety
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-Common on pump and semi-automatic firearms -A simple, push-button action that blocks the trigger or hammer -Usually located at the trigger guard or ahead of the hammer
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Pivot Safety
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-Common on handguns and bolt-action rifles -A pivoting lever or tab that blocks the trigger or firing pin -Located on the frame(blocks trigger) or on the bolt or slide (blocking firing pin)
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Slide or Tang Safety
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-Common on some rifles and break-actions shotguns -A sliding bar or button that blocks the firing action -Located on the tang (a metal strip behind the receiver) of break-action firearms or on the side of the receiver on some rifles.
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Half-Cock or Hammer Safety
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-Common on firearms with exposed hammers -Positions the trigger at half-cock, away from the firing pin -Engaged by placing the trigger at half-cock; some firearms automatically rebound to the half-cock position after the trigger is released -While not a true safety, it sometimes is described as a mechanical safety device by firearm manufacturers
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Hunter's Tip on Safeties
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-Never replace safe firearm handling by trusting the safety on a firearm. A safety is a mechanical device that could fail. Don't release the safety until just before you shoot -Knowing where the safety is and how it works is not always as simple as it might seem. There are many types of safeties. Sometimes persons alter or modify their guns to disable the safety. This is very dangerous, especially if the gun gets into the hands of an inexperienced shooter. Be sure you know how the safety works on your own gun or any others you handle. Never alter or modify your firearm yourself.
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Magazines
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In repeating firearms, the magazine is the place that stores the ammunition that has not been fired. When you work the action, a cartridge is picked up from the magazine and placed in the chamber ready to be fired. -Magazines are designed with a spring and follower that push against the cartridges to move them into the action. When checking a magazine to make sure it's empty, you must be able to either see or feel the follower; if you cannot see or feel the follower, there may be a cartridge jammed in the magazine, which can be dangerous. Tubular magazines require close attention to make sure a cartridge is not jammed in the magazine. -Magazines may be detachable or fixed. -Detachable magazines allow you to remove extra ammunition from the firearm simply by removing the magazine. -Fixed magazines require the ammunition to be removed manually from the gun itself. These include tubular, hinged-floorplate, and revolving magazines.
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Sight
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A sight is a device used to line up the muzzle with the shooter's eye so that he or she can hit the target. Sights are more critical on a firearm that fires a single projectile (rifle and handgun) than on a firearm that shoots a pattern of shot (shotgun). Shotguns usually have a simple pointing bead. Rifles typically have an open, aperture (peep), or telescopic sight. Most handguns have an open sight, although some specialized handguns have a dot or a telescopic sight.
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Bead sight
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Simple round bead set into the top of the barrel near the muzzle of a shotgun. Some shotguns have a second, smaller bead about halfway back on the barrel. The shooter uses the shotgun to \"point\" at and follow a moving object. The bead is used only for a reference as the shotgun is pointed and moved to follow flying or running targets.
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Open sight
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Combination of a bead or post front sight and a notched rear sight. These sights are simple and inexpensive. Open sights allow quick sighting. To aim, you center the top of the bead or post within the notch of the rear sight and line up on the target. Open sights can be fixed or adjustable.
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Aperture (Peep) sight
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Combination of a bead or post front sight and a round hole set on the rifle's receiver close to the shooter's eye. To aim, you center the target in the rear peep or aperture sight and then bring the front sight into the center of the hole. An aperture sight provides a better view of the target and is adjusted more easily than an open sight
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Sights Dot and Telescopic (Scope)
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-Small telescope mounted on your firearm. A scope gathers light, brightening the image and magnifying the target, and does away with aligning rear and front sights. The aiming device inside the scope is called the \"reticle.\" To aim, you simply look through the scope and line up the crosshairs, post, or dot with your target. Telescopic sights provide the most accurate aiming, which makes them popular for hunting. - Small device mounted on your firearm. A dot sight uses electronics or optical fibers to project a glowing dot or other mark on a lens in front of the shooter's eye. Some dot sights also magnify like telescopic sights.
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Main difference between rifles, shotguns, and handguns
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-Barrels, and type of ammunition used -The rifle barrel is long and has thick walls with spiraling grooves cut into the bore. The grooved pattern is called rifling. -The shotgun barrel is long and made of fairly thin steel that is very smooth on the inside to allow the shot and wad to glide down the barrel without friction. It's thinner than a rifle barrel since it does not have to withstand as much pressure. -The handgun barrel is much shorter than a rifle or shotgun barrel because the gun is designed to be shot while being held with one or two hands, rather than being placed against the shooter's shoulder. The bores of most handgun barrels also have a grooved pattern similar to rifles.
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Grooves
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The spiral cuts in a rifled bore
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Lands
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The ridges of metal between the grooves in a rifled bore
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Caliber
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The size of a rifle or handgun bore and the size of cartridges designed for different bores Usually measured as the diameter of the bore from land to opposite land and is expressed in hundredths of an inch, thousandths of an inch, or millimeters.
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A shotguns gauge
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-Shotguns are classified by gauge, which is a measure related to the diameter of the smooth shotgun bore and the size of the shotshell designed for that bore. -Common shotgun gauges are 10 gauge, 12 gauge, 16 gauge, 20 gauge, and 28 gauge. The smaller the gauge number, the larger the shotgun bore. Gauge is determined by the number of lead balls of size equal to the approximate diameter of the bore that it takes to weigh one pound. For example, it would take 12 lead balls with the same diameter as a 12-gauge shotgun bore to weigh one pound. Today, however, gauge can be measured much the same way as caliber by measuring the inside bore diameter. -The .410-bore shotgun is the only exception to the gauge designation for shotguns. It has an actual bore diameter of 410/1000ths of an inch, which is approximately equivalent to a 67œ gauge. -Each gauge of shotgun shoots only shells of the same gauge. For example, 12-gauge guns use only 12-gauge shells -The gauge of a shotgun is usually marked on the rear of the barrel, and the gauge of a shell is marked on the shell as well as on the factory box.
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Choke
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The degree of narrowing at the muzzle end of the shotgun barrel
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Shot pattern
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The spread of pellets after they hit a non-moving target
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Shot string
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The three-dimensional spread of shot pellets after they leave the barrel
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Cylinder choke
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Cylinder choke is an unconstricted barrel. The shot string spreads quickly.
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Improved cylinder choke
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Improved Cylinder choke has a slight constriction. It allows the shot string to spread fairly quickly. This is a good choice for quail, rabbits, and other upland game at relatively close ranges.
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Modified Choke
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Modified choke has moderate constriction. The pellets stay together longer, making the shot string denser and more useful at longer ranges. This choke is used often when dove hunting and when using steel shot to hunt for ducks or geese. There is also an Improved Modified choke that is slightly tighter than Modified.
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Full choke
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Full choke has tight constriction. The shot string holds together even longer, making this choke good for squirrels, turkey, and other game shot at 40-yard and longer ranges. Turkey hunters sometimes use Extra Full or Turkey choke for even denser patterns at long range.
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Steel shot
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Slightly lighter than lead shot of the same size, reducing its velocity and distance. Harder than lead, so the pellets stay round, keeping the pattern tighter
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Load
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The amount of gunpowder in the cartridge or shotshell together with the weight of the bullet or shot charge
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The danger of using wrong ammunition
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Smaller shotshells (such as 20-gauge shells), if mistakenly fed into a 12-gauge gun, will slip past the chamber and lodge in the barrel, causing serious personal injury or gun damage if a 12-gauge shell is loaded and fired. Some rifle and handgun ammunition also may fit into the wrong gun, creating a dangerous obstruction. The caliber or gauge stamped on the end of the shell must match that stamped on the gun barrel. Some barrels are not stamped. Be sure the right ammunition is used in your gun.
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Hang fires
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Hang fires happen when the firing pin has struck the primer and there is a delay before it fires. This can occur for several reasons, such as a faulty firing pin or spring, defective primer, or other cartridge-related problems. A misfire is when the primer fails to ignite the powder. Always treat a \"misfire\" or a \"hang fire\" as if the firearm is going to discharge at any second. Leave the action closed and retain your shooting position. Most importantly, maintain muzzle control in a safe direction at all times. Failure to follow these safe handling practices could result in a tragedy.
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Know your firearm's range
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Knowing your firearm's \"maximum projectile range\" is critical to being a safe and responsible hunter. The maximum projectile range tells you at what distances your firearm's projectile could cause injury or damage to persons, animals, or objects. When hunting, knowing the \"effective killing range\" lets you immediately assess when a shot will give a clean kill. The effective killing range will always be less than the maximum projectile range. Learning to estimate distances and knowing your firearm's projectile range and your effective killing range are important parts of hunting.
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Firearm cleaning basics
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Work on a cleared table or bench. Always give cleaning your full attention. Never clean a firearm while doing something else. Follow these basic steps to clean your firearm. Point the muzzle in a safe direction, and make sure the gun is unloaded. Remove all ammunition from the cleaning bench. For the most thorough cleaning, field strip the firearm as directed in the firearm owner's manual. Then clean each part separately.
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Cleaning kit should include
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Assorted rod tipsâbrushes, mop tips, slotted tips, jag tips Bore light Clean cloths Cleaning rods Cotton swabs Dental mirror Gun grease Gun oil Gunsmith screwdrivers Patches appropriate for the caliber or gauge of the firearm Pipe cleaners Solvent Stand to hold the firearm securely in a horizontal position Toothbrush
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General cleaning instructions
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Follow the instructions in your cleaning kit. If possible, clean the barrel from the breech end, using a bore guide and a cleaning rod holding a bore-brush or patch, wetted with solvent. Pass the brush/patch all the way through the barrel. Repeat several times with fresh patches. You may need a larger brush for the chamber. Use a hand brush to clean the crevices where powder residue accumulates. Follow with a dry patch, and finish with a lightly oiled patch for the barrel. Use cloth for other parts. Use a flexible \"pull-through\" cleaning cable when cleaning firearms with lever or semi-automatic actions to prevent dirt, grime, or debris from being pushed into the action area. Use cleaning solvents in a well-ventilated area and only as directed. If cleaning from the muzzle end, use a muzzle protector so that you don't damage the rifling near the muzzle.
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Steps for Cleaning a Firearm
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-Clean barrel and metal parts with good commercial solvent -Bore should be cleaned through breech end where possible -Clean bore until dry path comes through as clean as possible -Run oily patch through barrel -All metal parts should get light coat of oil -Store in horizontal position, or with muzzle pointing down -After storage, run a clean patch through bore before firing -Remove all excess grease and oil
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Frequency of cleanings
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-Firearms must be cleaned after every use and after prolonged storage to keep them in top condition. Accumulated dirt and moisture, burnt powder residue, and solidified grease or oil can prevent a gun fro operating proper.
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Firearm storage
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Firearms must be stored unloaded and in a locked location, separate from ammunition. The storage area should be cool, clean, and dry. Storing firearms in closed gun cases or scabbards isn't recommended because moisture can accumulate. Store guns horizontally, or with the muzzle pointing down. When guns are stored upright, gravity pulls gun oil downward into the action, which forms a sticky film. Oil also can drain onto the stock, softening the wood. Displaying guns in glass cabinets or wall racks is an invitation to thieves and curious children. Ideally, guns should be hidden from view and locked. Storage devices with hidden compartments are available. For the best protection against theft and fire damage, purchase a safe.
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Storing ammunition
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Store ammunition, reloading supplies, and firearms in separate locked compartments. Keep all ammunition away from flammables. Store ammunition in a cool, dry place to prevent corrosion. Corroded ammunition can cause jamming, misfires, and other safety problems.
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Good marksmanship
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Accurately and consistently hitting the target where planned. 3 fundamentals: -Proper sight adjustment or patterning -Proper shooting technique -Practice
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Know your accuracy limits
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-An 8-inch paper plate is the standard target for establishing deer hunting accuracy. An 8-inch target is about the same size as the vital area of a deer. You need to be able to hit the paper plate consistently at the same distance and from the same shooting position you will be using when hunting. The fact that you can hit an 8-inch target at 100 yards from a bench rest does not mean you will be able to do the same from a standing or kneeling position -Before hunting, practice until you are confident you can hit the required target at the distances and from the shooting positions you expect to use in the field. When hunting, limit you shots to your most accurate range
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Sight Alignment
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Process of lining up rear and front sights. The sight pictures is the image you see when the sights are aligned correctly with the target. To ensure that the bullet will travel to the target in your sight, it's necessary to sight-in your rifle. Before you can do that, you need to determine your dominant or \"master\" eye. 1. With an open sight, you line up the target with the blade or bead of the front sight within the notch of the rear sight 2. With an aperture sight, you line up the target so that the front sight is within the rear peephole -With a telescopic sight with a crosshair reticle, you line up the target with the crosshairs of the sight -With a telescopic sight with a dot reticle, you line up the target wight he dot of the sight. the dot must be centered
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Determining your dominant eye
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To determine your dominant eye: Form a triangular opening with your thumbs and forefingers. Stretch your arms out in front of you. Focus on a distant object while looking through the triangular opening and keeping both eyes open. Bring your hands slowly to your face, keeping sight of the object through the opening; the opening will come to your dominant eye naturally. If you're not sure, close one eye at a time. The weak eye will see the back of your hand; the strong one will be focused on the object in the triangle.
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Sighting in a rifle
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Rifle bullets don't travel in a straight line. They travel in an arc, formed by the pull of gravity. \"Sighting-in\" is a process of adjusting the sights to hit a target at a specific range. Deer hunters, for example, often sight-in their rifles to hit the bull's eye at 100 yards -Makes accurate shooting possible -Helps determine the farthest range at which you can hit your target -Improves safety by helping you know where your rifle shoot All riffles should be sighted-in before every hunt using the ammunition you plan to use, especially rifles with peep or telescopic sights. Guns you sighted-in prior to your last outing could have been knocked out of alignment by a single jolt. That misalignment could mean the difference between a successful hunt and a disappointing experience -Forces you to practice -Helps determine problems with your shooting technique -Builds confidence in your shooting ability
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Optional sighting-in techniques
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Use bore or collimator sighting-in initially to line up the rifle on the paper target. However, these techniques alone are not sufficient to sight-in a rifle. You must make final adjustments by firing the rifle with the same ammunition you plan to use in the field. Bore sighting-in with bolt-action rifles: Remove the bolt, brace the firearm on sandbags, and look directly through the bore. Correct the rifle's position until you see the bull's-eye in the center of the bore. Adjust the sights to give you a good sight picture. Collimator sighting-in for rifles without bolt actions: A collimator slips into the muzzle end of the barrel and allows you to adjust the sights much like bore sighting-in.
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Sighting-In procedure
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Fire your rifle from a solid bench rest with the forestock resting on a pad or a sandbag. Don't rest the gun on its barrelâit will shoot higher than normal. Ideally, use an adjustable shooting tripod with sandbags. A spotting scope is also useful. Sight-in instructions are printed on some targets available from retail outlets or manufacturers. The sighting-in process for most centerfire rifles begins at 25 yards and then should be repeated at 100 yards. The basic steps involve firing at least three shots carefully and consistently at a target. If the bullets form a relatively small group of holes on the target, but not where you were aiming, the sights will have to be adjusted.
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Adjusting your sight
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When adjusting peep or telescopic sights, the rear sights or dials are adjusted by a certain number of minutes-of-angle or \"clicks\" in a certain direction. Read the sight's instruction manual to see how much each click changes the sight at 100 yards. The rear sight is moved in the same direction you want your shot to move on the target. Moving shots from side to side is \"adjusting for windage.\" Moving shots up or down is \"adjusting for elevation.\" Specific instructions about trajectory and what fractions or inches you should be above the bull's-eye at 25, 50, or 100 yards are usually included on sight-in targets. You also might consult a ballistics chart or get help from an experienced shooter.
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Minutes of angle
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The standard measurement unit of shooting accuracy; one minute-of-angle (MOA) is 1/60 of one degree, or approximately one inch, at 100 yards
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Rifle-Firing Techniques
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Using correct firing techniques will help you steady the rifle for the most accurate shooting. Bear in mind that these are only the basics. Further study will help you understand other factors that can affect your accuracy, such as wind, heat, and parallax. Shooting from a Rest: When shooting in the field, the safest and most accurate shots are taken from a restâa log, large rock, or other stable object. Don't rest the barrel directly on a hard surface, or it will shoot higher than normalâput some padding, such as a hat or a jacket, under the rifle. Breathing: Your breathing can move the rifle just enough to throw off your shot. When you're ready to shoot, draw a deep breath and exhale about half of it. Then hold your breath as you squeeze the trigger. Bear in mind that if you hold your breath too long, your heart beats faster, which increases your pulse and causes the rifle to move. If you notice this happening, take another breath and start over. At times the excitement of spotting game will make it more difficult to control your breathing. Try to relax and follow the correct procedure. Trigger Squeeze: Jerking the trigger or abruptly clenching the trigger hand can move the gun enough to cause a miss. To squeeze the trigger without jarring the gun, simply apply slow, steady pressure until the gun fires. Practice makes breath control and proper trigger squeeze habitual. Follow Through: After the bullet fires, it's important to continue the squeeze or follow through. That prevents you from jerking the gun before the bullet has left the barrel. Four Fundamentals for an Accurate Rifle Shot Aim carefully, aligning your sights. Take a deep breath, and then release about half of it. Squeeze the trigger slowly. Follow through.
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Parallax
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Optical bending of telescopic crosshairs in relation to the target
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Prone
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The prone position is the steadiest of the four positions. Because it's the easiest to hold, it's the best position for mastering the fundamentals of shootingâaiming, breath control, trigger squeeze, and follow through.
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Standing
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With neither arm supported, this is the most difficult position for firing an accurate shot. Rather than trying to hold the barrel steady, which is impossible, try to keep movement of the barrel to as small an area as possible. Smooth, natural motion will produce the best shot.
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Sitting
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There are four standard rifle firing positions: prone, standing, sitting, and kneeling. Both arms are supported by your legs. Next to the prone position, this is the steadiest position.
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Kneeling
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With only one arm braced, the kneeling position is less steady than the prone and sitting positions.
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Shooting a shotgun vs. a Rifle
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1. Point a shotgun 2. Focus your eye on the target 3. Pull the trigger 1. Aim the rifle 2. Focus your eye on the crosshairs or front sight 3. Squeeze the trigger Remember: Point a shotgun. Pull the trigger Aim a rifle. Squeeze the trigger.
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Choosing the proper choke
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As with rifle shooting, good shotgun marksmanship begins with proper preparation, which includes adjusting your gun and ammunition for maximum performance and mastering shotgun techniques. A choke allows you to fine-tune your shotgun for the type of game you're hunting. Built-in or attached to the muzzle end of the barrel, the choke is a constriction that controls the shot string, thus affecting pellet density at various distances. The tighter the constriction, the greater the distance that the cluster of pellets stays together. The looser the constriction, the faster the shot pattern spreads. Recall that the most common chokes, ranging from tightest to most open, are: Full Modified Improved Cylinder Cylinder (unchoked) Full choke
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Matching Choke to Your Quarry
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For example, someone hunting small, fast, close birds would generally use an improved cylinder or modified choke, which creates a broad shot pattern that spreads quickly at close ranges. Conversely, someone hunting a larger, less mobile bird that is usually farther away, such as a turkey, would select a full choke, which concentrates the shot in a smaller area. Pellet size also varies based on the size of the game. The chart below suggests choke selections for a variety of game. It is intended only as a guideâchoice of choke may vary depending on ammunition, target distance, and hunting conditions. Always pattern your shotgun for the quarry you are hunting and the ammunition you are using. Quarry Commonly Used Choke (based on typical distance from quarry) Goose Improved Cylinder or Modified Duck Improved Cylinder or Modified Turkey Full or Extra Full Pheasant Improved Cylinder, Modified, or Full Grouse Improved Cylinder or Modified Woodcock, rail, or snipe Improved Cylinder or Modified Dove Improved Cylinder or Modified Quail Improved Cylinder or Modified Rabbit Improved Cylinder or Modified Squirrel Modified or Full
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Patterning your shotgun
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No two shotguns will shoot identical pellet patterns. In some cases, the pattern will be off-center. In other instances, there may be gaps in the pattern. In addition to the firing characteristics of the gun, the gun's choke, the brand of shotshell, the shot size, and the type of shot also affect the pattern. In order to select ammunition that provides the best performance, it's necessary to \"pattern\" your shotgun. Shots at game birds in flight should be limited to your \"maximum effective range.\" This is the distance at which you can hit the target consistently. Shooting beyond this distance leads to an increased number of birds wounded and lost. Also, firing at game too close may destroy the meat.
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The patterning procedure
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Patterning can be done with simple, homemade targetsâsheets of blank paper about 4 x 4 feet in size. A commercial target with a bull's-eye also can be used, but the bull's-eye is used only to aim atâit is not used in steps 2-4 below. To pattern your shotgun, follow these steps: Pattern density Fire one shot at the center of the target (or bull's-eye) from the distance that you expect to be from your quarry (for example, 35 yards if hunting game birds). Repeat this two more times, each time with a new sheet of target paper. On each of the three targets, draw a 30-inch circle around the densest part of the shot pattern. (This is not necessarily the center of the paper.) On each of the three targets, count the number of pellet holes that fall within the 30-inch circle, marking them with the marker as you count each one. Calculate the percentage of the load that is expected to land in a 30-inch circle at the distance that you expect to be from your quarry. Average the pellet counts within the 30-inch circles (add the three counts from the previous step and divide the sum by three). Then divide the average pellet count by the number of pellets in the load for the ammunition you are using, and multiply this result by 100.
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When is your shot patterning correct?
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The pattern of pellets within a 30-inch circle should be of a proper, even density to ensure a clean kill. The pattern should contain a sufficient percentage of the load, which should be at least 55% to 60%. Continue this process, trying different choke and load combinations, until you get an even pattern density with a sufficient percentage of the load within a 30-inch circle while shooting from the distance that you expect to be from your quarry.
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Shotgun-shooting stance
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Unlike rifle shooting, quick reflexes and flexibility are essential for effective shotgun shooting. Proper shotgun techniques will help you develop the rapid, fluid response you need to hit your target. A shotgun is almost always fired at a moving target from a standing position. You must be able to swing freely over a wide arc and maintain control. That requires a relaxed, balanced stance. Stand with your feet spread about shoulder-width apart and your knees bent slightly so that you are balanced perfectly. Bring your left foot slightly forward (if you're a right-handed shooter), and lean your body in the same direction. The position of the feet is important. The toes of your forward foot should point at about 45-degrees toward the target. Take the time to place your feet properly, even for a quick shot. Keeping your knees slightly bent makes it easier to swing with a moving target. The bent leg to the rear supports the movements of your hips, allowing you to swing smoothly. Proper shotgun stance Use a relaxed, balanced stance with your feet shoulder-width apart and your weight slightly forward on your left foot (if you're a right-handed shooter), and lean your body in the same direction.
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Pointing, Shouldering, and Pulling the Trigger of a shotgun
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Pointing a Shotgun Because targets usually appear suddenly and move quickly, there's no time to \"aim\" a shotgun. It's designed to be pointed, with the eye sighting along the top of the barrel or rib. The sight is usually a bead on the front of the gun. Your eye must be in line with the barrel, so it's important to position your head properly on the stock. When you bring the gun to your face, the stock should fit snugly against your cheek with your eye on that side above the centerline of the gun. If you can't assume that position comfortably, you may need to adjust the \"gun fit.\" Hunter pointing shotgun Shouldering the Shotgun When you bring the shotgun to your shoulder, the stock should be brought to your cheek first and then back to your shoulder. A common error is lowering the head and cheek to the stock, instead of bringing the stock all the way up to the cheek. When done properly, with your head naturally erect, the gun butt always should come to the same spot on your shoulder. Pulling the Trigger Unlike rifle shooting, quick trigger action is important when hunting with a shotgun. Slap the trigger rather than squeezing it. Because the trigger is pulled quickly and the body and gun are typically in motion, breath control isn't necessary. Continue the shotgun's swing as you pull the trigger. Stopping the swing as you shoot will cause you to hit behind a moving target.
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Leading the target-swing-through method
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The two most common methods of leading targets at long distances are swing-through and sustained lead. Leading the target with swing-through method Point your shotgun at a moving target and swing with it. Increase the speed of the gun so that the muzzle passes the target and then fire. In other words, literally \"swing through\" the target and fire at a blank space in front of the target. Swing-through is the best technique for the beginning student.
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Leading the target-susatined lead
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The two most common methods of leading targets at long distances are swing-through and sustained lead. Leading the target with sustained lead method This method is a little more challenging because it requires more experience. You estimate the length of the lead necessary to hit the target and maintain that lead as you swing with the target, fire, and continue the swing.
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Snap-shooting
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Snap-shooting is a technique to use if you must make a quick shot and the target is straight ahead at close range. You simply raise the shotgun and point where you think the target will be when the shot arrives.
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Handgun loading and handling
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Hunting with handguns has been growing in popularity in recent years. Many of the fundamentals of rifle shooting also apply to handguns. Single-action revolvers typically load through a gate on the right side of the frame. To rotate the cylinder, pull the hammer back to half-cock. For a safer carry in the holster or hand, leave an empty chamber in front of the hammer. Double-action revolvers have cylinders that fall downward, exposing all chambers for loading. Semi-automatics usually fire rounds stored in a magazine that is inserted in the grip or handle.
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Handgun shooting position and group
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Use eye and ear protection. Assume a stable position. Grip the handgun with both hands. Do not cross the thumb of the supporting hand behind the slide of a semi-automatic. Body position and grip are vital to hitting the target. The hand position on the grip of a pistol is especially critical. Although the grip configuration of the revolver and semi-automatic are different, the gripping procedure is the same. Hold the handgun high on the grip so that the recoil is directed back to the hand and arm in a straight line. This allows better repeat shots and more accurate shooting. Use a two-handed hold whenever possible, applying pressure from front to rear. When hunting, use a tree trunk, steady limb, or other stable object as a rest. Placing some padding, such as a hat or a jacket, on top of a hard rest helps with your aim.
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Sight alignment (2)
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Sight alignment, which is important in rifle shooting, is even more important in pistol shooting because of the shorter distance between the sights. Typically, handgun sights consist of a square rear notch sight and a heavy square front blade sight. This arrangement is easy to align. Most handguns are initially sighted-in at 50 feet.
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Aiming
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At the shooting range, many handgunners use a sight picture that places the bull's-eye on the top of the front sight, rather than placing it in the sights over the center of the target. However, hunters should hold the alignment directly over the vital area. Scopes with long eye relief have become popular with handgunners and offer exact sighting for hunters. Scopes may take longer to align on a target than open sights, but they're usually more accurate.
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Handgun-Shooting Techniques
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The pistol shooting fundamentals of breath control, trigger squeeze, and follow through are almost identical to those in rifle shooting. There are, however, some important differences to remember. The first joint of the finger should take up trigger pressure, not the tip as is often done with rifles. When a revolver is fired, powder flashing at the front of the cylinder can cause burns. Be sure to keep your fingers away from the front of the trigger area. The slide and hammer of a semi-automatic gun can deliver a bruising blow when held too close to the body. All handguns should be fired at arm's length. Remember... Use a good holster with a safety strap. Draw a handgun only when you see game. Cock your gun only when ready to shoot. Keep your finger outside the trigger guard until ready to shoot.
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Protecting your vision and hearing
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Shooting a firearm can cause immediate and permanent hearing loss and can damage your vision. When shooting any firearm, always wear properly fitting ear protection. For target practice, use an earplug or earmuff (or both) with a high Noise Reduction Rating (NRR). When hunting, use electronic or non-linear devices that allow normal or even enhanced hearing but block damaging levels of sound. For more information, visit the National Hearing Conservation Association website. Always wear suitable eye protection, such as shooting glasses with high-impact lenses, to prevent injury from a ruptured shell or firearm malfunction. Wear eye protection also whenever disassembling or cleaning a handgun.
