CH. 20 PERMING COSMO BOOK

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The main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms is:
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ammonium thioglycolate
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The main active ingredient in acid-balanced waving lotions is:
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glycerol monothioglycolate
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The degree to which hair absorbs the waving lotion is related to its:
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porosity
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The action of waving lotion is to:
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expand the hair
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If hair breaks under very slight strain, it has:
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little or no elasticity
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A method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair is the
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double tool technique
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Keratin proteins are made of long chains of ______________ linked together end-to-end like beads.
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amino acids
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Hair texture describes the ______________ of a single strand of hair and is classified as fine, medium, or coarse.
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diameter
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Waves that process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves are considered to be
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acid-balanced
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The perm that is activated by heat created chemically within the product is known as
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endothermic
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Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by:
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peptide bonds
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A perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood dryer is known as:
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endothermic
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Bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent polypeptide chains are joined together are:
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disulfide
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The chemical action of ______________ breaks the disulfide bonds and softens the hair.
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waving lotion
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When hair has assumed the desired shape, the broken disulfide bonds must be ______________rebonded.
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chemically
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Straight rods are equal in:
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diameter
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______________ rods have a small diameter in the center area and gradually increase to their largest diameter at the ends, resulting in a tighter curl at the hair ends, with a loose, wider curl at the scalp.
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Concave
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What type of hair is more fragile, easier to process, and more susceptible to damage from perm services?
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fine texture
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What type of hair requires more processing than medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to processing?
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coarse texture
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All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels which are further divided into subsections called
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base sections
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Base control refers to the position of the tool in relation to its ______________ and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
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base panel
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The basic perm wrap is also called a ______________ wrap.
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straight set
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The ______________ wrap creates a movement that curves within sectioned-out panels
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curvature perm
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The ______________ wrap uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.
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weave technique
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When the strand of hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section, it will result in:
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on-base placement
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When the strand of hair is wrapped at an angle 90 degrees (perpendicular) to its base section, it will result in:
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half-off base placement
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End wraps are absorbent papers used to ______________ of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm tools.
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control ends
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When you place one end wrap on top of the hair strand and hold it flat, it is called the:
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single flat wrap
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When one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope, it is called the:
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book end wrap
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What can be used to determine the actual processing time needed to achieve optimum curl results when giving a perm for the first time on a client?
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preliminary test curl
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If too many ______________ bonds are broken in the perming process, the hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl.
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disulfide
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Underprocessing is caused by ______________ processing time of the waving lotion
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insufficient
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In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first ______________ minutes.
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five to ten
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The length of time required for the hair strands to absorb the waving lotion and for the hair to re-curl is called:
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processing time
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Always rinse perm solution from the hair for at least ______________ minutes before applying the neutralizer.
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five
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Some manufacturers recommend the application of a ______________ after blotting and before application of the neutralizer.
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pre-neutralizing conditioner
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Neutralization rebuilds the ______________ by removing the extra hydrogen bonds created by the waving solution.
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disulfide bonds
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If the hair is not ______________, the hydrogen peroxide in the neutralizer can react with waving lotion and cause the hair color to lighten.
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rinsed properly
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Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite charges are______________ bonds.
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hydrogen
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An ______________ liquid protein conditioner can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for five minutes or more prior to neutralization if hair is damaged.
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acidic
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In neutralization, the bonds in the hair are re-formed:
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immediately
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Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains are ______________ bonds.
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peptide
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Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause ______________, severe discoloration, or hair breakage.
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uneven curls
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The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows is known as:
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viscosity
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Perming only a section of a whole head of hair is called:
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partial perming
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The ______________ wrap is used to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair.
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bricklay perm
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The ______________ wrap is done at an angle that causes the hair to spiral along the length of the tool, like the grip on a tennis racquet.
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spiral
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When performing a procedure for a preliminary test curl, wrap one tool in each different area of the head including the top, the side, and the:
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nape
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In order to make a smooth transition from the rolled section of the head to an unrolled section, use a larger tool for the last tool next to an unrolled section when giving a:
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partial perm
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Many male clients are looking for added ______________, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide.
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texture
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