OCE chapter 8 actual – Flashcards

Of the following events, which is/are capable of generating waves? An underwater landslide Uplift or downdropping of the ocean floor A storm moving over the ocean surface Human activities, such as a ship traveling across the ocean A rock falling into a still pond

Of the following statements about ocean waves, which is/are true? Ocean waves can be classified by the depth of water in which they move. The only ocean waves occur along the air/water interface. Ocean waves can be classified by the way in which they form. Ocean waves can be described by their period, wavelength, and height. Ocean waves involve the transport of water across ocean basins.

deepest water depth of the circular motion of water molecules wave height wavelength/2 steepness = 1:7 wavelength/period

diameter of orbital wave at the surface wavelength/2 steepness = 1:7 wave height wavelength/period

T/F: Waves at the ocean surface are called orbital or interface waves.

T/F: The speed of a shallow-water wave is a function of wave period.

which doesnt fit: A. crest B. height C. length D. period E. trough

The celerity (speed) of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 9 meters, relative to that of a deep-water wave with a wavelength of 1 meter, will be ______________. slower determined by water depth determined by wave height the same faster

You live on an island in the Pacific. An earthquake of magnitude 8.5 off the coast of Japan, 8000 km away, generates a tsunami with a wavelength of 200 km. The average water depth between your island and Japan is 4900 m. If a tsunami warning is issued for your island, how many hours will you have before the waves arrive? 12.34 hours 7.40 hours 10.14 hours 8.51 hours 6.87 hours

What is a swell? Swells are steep, short-crested waves that require a great deal of energy to move from their place of origin. Swells are fast-moving gravity currents along an ocean slope (bottom) that are a mix of sediment and water. Swells are long-crested, uniform, symmetrical waves that require very little energy to travel out of their area of origin. Swells are a type of breaking wave that forms on a gently sloping beach. Swells are massive, solitary, spontaneous ocean waves that occur when ocean waves are not unusually large.

T/F: A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves

T/F: The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea or sea area.

The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to: wave frequency. wave period. wavelength. water depth. wave height.

In general the restoring force for wind-generated waves is: surface tension of water molecules. wind. seismic activity. cohesion of water molecules. gravity.

a fetch refers to: a type of wave-cut platform. the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes. the distance over which the wind blows without interruption. the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level. a method of shoreline erosion control.

Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out by wavelength are called: capillary waves. wind waves. surf. swell. constructive waves.

rogue waves tend to occur: where storm waves move against strong surface currents. in areas where wind belts converge. in upwelling zones. only in the southern ocean below 60°S latitude. in coastal areas with weak sea breezes.

Destructive wave interference results in ______________ increased beach erosion reduced wave height rogue waves the very best breakers for surfing intensified surface currents

MA: Of the following statements about ocean waves, which one(s) describe wave period? Wave height divided by wavelength The vertical distance between a wave crest and an adjacent trough The inverse of wave frequency The time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point The horizontal distance between adjacent wave crests The number of waves that pass a given point in a certain amount of time

Of the following waves, which one has the deepest wave base? Select only one answer. A wave with a 1-meter wave height and a wavelength of 10 meters A wave with a 2-meter wave height and a wavelength of 1000 meters A wave with a 3-meter wave height and a wavelength of 100 meters A wave with a 5-meter wave height and a wavelength of 100 meters A wave with a 7-meter wave height and a wavelength of 100 meters

MA:Of the following physical changes that occur to waves as they move into shallow water, which is/are true? The waves touch bottom. Wavelength decreases. Wave height increases. Wave speed increases. Wave steepness increases.

What is the major difference between reflection and refraction of waves? Wave refraction is the bouncing back of waves and wave energy when it encounters a hard surface. Reflection is the bending of a wave as it approaches shore. Wave reflection and wave refraction refer to the same principle and are interchangeable terms. Wave refraction is the bending of waves as they approach shore. Reflection is the bouncing back of waves and wave energy when they encounter a hard surface.

T/F: A wave will break when wave steepness is equal to 1/20.

T/F: A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a plunger breaker

As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height: decreases and its wavelength increases. increases and its wavelength decreases decreases and its steepness decreases. increases and its frequency decreases. increases and its wavelength remains the same.