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Chemical Texture Services

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are hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair

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Permanent Waving

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Adding wave or curl to hair

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Relaxing

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removing curl, leaving the hair smooth and wave-free

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Curl Re-Forming

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soft curl permanents loosening overly curly hair such as when tight curls and turned into loose curls or waves.

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Hair Structure

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Cuticle, Cortex and Medulla

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Cuticle

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Tough exterior layer of the hair (is not directly involved in the texture or movement of the hair)

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Cortex

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Middle layer of te hair located directly beneath the cuticle layer (is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair)

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Medulla

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Inner layers of the hair (does not play a role in chemical texture sevices)

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pH

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Potential Hydrogen

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pH Scale

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0 - 14

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Acid

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0 - 6.9

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Neutral

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7

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Alkaline

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7.1 - 14

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Natural pH of Hair

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4.5 - 5.5

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Chemical Texturizers

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raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to soften and swell the hair shaft

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Sotfen in hair

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opens the cuticle layer and allows the solution to reach the cortex layer

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Damaged hair

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needs less alkaline

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Building blocks of hair

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Amino Acid, Peptide bonds, Polypeptide chains, Keratin Proteins, Side bonds

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Amino Acid

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are compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur

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Peptide bonds (end bonds)

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are chemical bonds that join amino acids together

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Polypeptide chains

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are long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds

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Keration proteins

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are long, coiled polypeptide chains

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Side Bonds

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are disulfide, salt and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together

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Cortex

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is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by three types of side bonds (disulfide, salt and hydrogen)

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Disulfide Bonds

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Strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together (the strongerst of the 3 side bonds, accounting for about 1/3 of the hairs overall strength) (The chemical physical changes in disulfide bonds make permanent waving, curl-reforming and relaxing possible)

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Salt Bonds

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are relatively weak physical side bonds that are the resultof an attraction between negative and positive eletrical charges (easily broken by changes in pH and they re-form when the pH returns to normal) (1/3 of the hairs strength)

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Hydrogen bonds

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are weak physical side bonds that are also result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges (can be broken by water or heat) (re-form as the hair dries or cools) (1/3 of the hairs strenght)

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Permanent Wave alters

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the side bonds only when done correctly

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Permanent Waving

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is a 2-step process, the hair undergoes a physical changes caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods and then the hair under goes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer

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Rod size

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determines the size of the curl

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The rod shape and wrapping method

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determines the shape and type of curl

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Concave Rods

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have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends

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Straight Rods

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are equal in diameteralong their entire length or curling area

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Soft Bender Rods

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are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod

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Loop Rod or Circle Rod

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are usually 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod

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End Paper or End Wraps

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are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping the winding hair on the perm rods

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Double Flat Wrap

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1 paper under the strand and another over the strand of hair

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Single Flat Wrap

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Similar to the double flat wrap but uses only one end paper places over the top of the top of the strand of hair

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Bookend Wrap

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uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ens like a envelope.

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Base Sections

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are subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping: one rod is normally placed on each base section

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Base Placement

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refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section

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On Base

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Sits in between the top and bottom parting, starts 45 degrees above the center

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Half Off-Base

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Sits on the bottom parting, starts 90 degrees from the center

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Off Base

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Sits under the bottom parting, starts 45 degrees below the center

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Base Direction

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refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head: horizontally, vertically or diagonally

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Croquignole Perm Wrap

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wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers

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Spiral Perm Wrap

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hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, like the stripes on the candy cane.

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Double-rod wrap (Piggyback Wrap)

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the hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to the midway down the hair shaft and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction

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Alkaline permanent waving solution

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softens and swells the hair, and they open the cuticle, permitting the solution to penetrate into the cortex

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Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called _________

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reduction

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Thioglycolic Acid

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a colorless iquid with a storng, unpleasant odor, is the most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions

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Alkaline Waves

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Cold Waves

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Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)

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which is alkaline and is the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents

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Alkaline Waves

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have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 use ammonium thioglycolate as the reducing agent and process at room temperature without the addition of heat

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Acid Waves

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glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)

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Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG)

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is the main active ingredient in true acid an acid-balanced waving lotions. It has a low pH

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True Acid Waves

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have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly then alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves GMTG is the active ingredient

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Neutral pH for hair

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5.0

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Even the strongest acid waves also contains some ____________

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alkaline

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Acid-balanced Waves

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have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of their higher pH, the process at room temperture

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Exothermic waves

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create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up the processing

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An ___________ chemical reaction is one that absorbs heat from its surrounding.

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endothermic

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Endothermic waves

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are activated by an outside heat source, usually a converntional hood dryer

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Ammonia-free waves

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are perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia

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Alkaline/Cold Waves

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ATG - Room Temperature - Coarse, Thick or Resistant Hair

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Exothermic Waves

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Ammonium, Thioglycolate - Eothermic - Coarse, Thick or Resistant Hair

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True Acid Wave

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GMTG - Endothermic - extremely porouse or very damaged hair

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Acid-Balanced Wave

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GMTG - Room Temperature - Porous to Normal Hair

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Ammonia-Free Wave

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Monoethanolamine (MEA)/Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) - Room Temperature - Roous to Normal Hair

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Thio-Free Wave

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Mercaptamine/Cysteamine - Room Temperature - Porous to Normal Hair

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Low-pH Waves

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Ammonium Sulfite/Ammonium Bisulfite - Endothermic - Normal, Fine or Damaged Hair

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Overprocessed Hair

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can end up overlly curly or can even end up not holding the curl

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If too many ____________ _____ are broken the hair will be to weak to hold a firm curl.

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disulfide bonds

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Underprocessed Hair

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too few disulfide bonds are broken, the hair will not be sufficiently softened and will not be able to hold the desired curlk

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Thio Neutralization

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stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form

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Neutralization performs 2 important functions:

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1. Any waving solution that remains in the hair is deactivated (neutralized) 2. Disulfide bonds that were broken by the waving solution are rebuilt

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Basic Permanent Wrap (Straight Set Wrap)

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is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel ove in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width as the perm rod.

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Base Control

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is the position of the tool in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped

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Curvature Permanent Wrap

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partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

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Weave Technique

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uses zigzag partings to divide base areas

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Relaxers

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...

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Chemical Hair Relaxing

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is a process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form

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Common types of chemical hair relaxers are ___ _______ _______ __ _______ __________

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thio (ammonium thioglycolate) and sodium hydroxide

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Thio Relaxers

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use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above)

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Thio Relaxers

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are also thicker. For better control of the product.

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Viscosity

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the measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows

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Neutralizer used with Thio Relaxers

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is an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, just as in perments

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Japanese Thermal Straighteners or Thermal Reconditioning

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combines use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing

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Steps in Japanese Thermal Straighteners

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- the straightener is applied to sections, distributed evenly, and processed until the hair is rinsed thoughly for about 10 minutes - Conditioned - Blown dry - Flat ironed (several passes of the flat iron are required for each section)

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Hydroxide Relaxer

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active ingredient is hydoxide ions, is a very strong alkaline with a pH over 13

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Metal Hydroxide Relaxers

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are ionic compounds formed by a metal sodium, potassium or lithium which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen

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Lye-Based Relaxers

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commonly contains sodium hydroxide, are the oldest and still most common relaxes

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No-Lye Relaxers

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contain lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide relaxers are often advertised and sold as no mix-no lye relaxers

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Base Cream (protective base cream)

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is an oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing

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Base Relaxers

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require the application of a protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to te application of the relaxer

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No-Base Relasers

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do not require the application of a protective base cream. They contain a protective base cream that is designed to melt at body temperature

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Relaxers Strengths

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mild, regular and super

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Mild - Strength Relaxers

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are formulated for fine, color-treated or damaged hair

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Regular - Strenght Relaxers

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are intended for normal hair texture with a medium natural curl

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Super - Strenght Relaxers

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used for maximum straightening on very coarse, extremely curly, and resistant hair

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Hydroxide Neutralization

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is an acid-alkali neutralization that neutralizes the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydroxide relaxers and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp

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Hydroxide Relaxers Neutralization

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does not involve oxidation or rebuilding disulfide bonds. The pH remains high even after a thorough rinsing. The application of an acid-balanced shampoo or a normalizing lotion neutralizes any remaining hydroxide ions to lower the pH of the hair and scalp

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Keratin Straightening Treatments

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contains silicone polymers and formalin or similar ingredients, which release formaldehyde gas when treated to high temperatures

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Sodium Hydroxide

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pH 12.5 - 13.5, Lye Relaxer, Very Effective for extremely curly hair may cause scalp irritation and damage the hair

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Lithium Hydroxide & Potassium Hydroxide

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pH 12.5 - 13.5, no mix, no-lye relaxer, very effective for extremely curly hair, may cause scalp irritation and damage the hair

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Guanidine Hydroxide

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pH 13 - 13.5, no-lye relaxer, causes less skin irritation than other hydroxide relaxers, more drying to hair with repeated use

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Ammonium Thioglycolate

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pH 9.6 - 10.0, thio relaxers, no-lye relaxer, compatible with soft curl permanents, strong unpleasant ammonia smell

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Ammonium Sulfite/Ammonium bisulfite

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pH 6.5 - 8.5, low pH relaxer, no-lye relaxer, less damaging to hair, does not sufficiently relax extremely curly hair

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Soft Curl Permanent

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is a combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent that is wrapped on large rods to make existing curl large and looser

Milady Chapter 20 Perms & Relaxers

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