Cosmetic Products and Ingredients – Flashcards
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"Potential Hudrogen" The unit of measurement that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral, or alkaline
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Alkaline |
Term used to describe a base. The release of hydroxide ions that are negatively charged (-) results in a base product (red litmus turns blue)
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Logarithmic |
Each step increases by multiples of 10
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pH Balanced |
The pH is balances at a certain level, but not necessarily at 4.5 -5.5 |
Acid Balanced |
Balanced within pH range 4.5 - 5.5 |
Acid Mantle |
Protective barrier created by mixture of sebum and sweat combining with lipids, minerals, & moisture |
Hard Water |
may contain salts such as calcium & magnesium |
Soft Water |
Contains very few minerals, created by use of a water-filtration unit |
Mixture |
Formed when 2 or more compounds are blended together physically rather than chemically, creating a new overall product but still tetaining separate chemical characteristics of the compounds blended |
Solution |
a mixture of 2 or more chemicals in which each component is evenly distributed in the mixture to form a complete & homogenous dispersion |
Solvent |
the liquid part of a solution |
Solute |
Solid or dissolved part of a solution
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Saturation Point |
when a solute will no longert dissolve evenly in the solvent |
Miscible |
solvents that easily mix together
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Immiscible |
Solvents that dont easily mix with each other |
Suspension |
the even dispersion of a solid substance in a liquid base |
Gel |
product formulated with thickening agents to increase viscosity |
Powder |
finely ground solid mixed evenly with additional ingredinets, in some cases includes oil |
Ointment |
Anhydrous (without water) substance based on a mixture of oils & waxes, normally having the texture of a paste (thick& heavy)
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Stick |
Hard, low water (or anhydrous) product applied to the sking by rubbing the product directly on the desired area |
Aerosol |
Product packaged under pressure and blended with proepllent (gas) inside a container, which is usually a can |
Emulsion |
Misture of 2 or more non-mixable (immiscible) substances, such as oil & water, united by small droplets of a binder (emulsifier) or gum-like subsatnce |
Emulsifier |
Chemical structure of a polar and non-polar end allows compatibility with both water and oil. Binds molecules tothether, blends ingredients, protects stability of product, changes viscosity, extends shelf-life up to 3 years
Ex: Carbomer, Stearamide, Ceth-20, Polyethelene Glycol, Besswax, Polysorbate |
Cremes and lotions |
(most common) emulsions used to impart emmoliency (oil) & moisturizatin (water) to skin |
Active Ingredients |
Ingredients responsible for producing the desired effect |
Humectants |
Organic ingredients that bind water and deposit it into the skin |
Emollients |
oils & oil soluable substances used to condidtion and soften the skin by providing a proctctive coating called an Occlusive Barrier |
Fatty Acids |
come from both plant and animal sources, commonly used in cosmetic products such as cremes and lotions to keep them firm but soft, and easy to apply |
Fatty Alcohols |
Fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen |
Surfactants |
used in most cleansing products/detergents, have ability to bind a wide range of organic and inorganic matter to water |
Viscosity Modifiers |
(thickeners) ingredients that help increase density in emulsions and gel-typer products |
Botanicals |
general classification for a wide variety of natural or naturally derived ingredients extraced from plants (anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-bacterial, anti-irritants) |
Preservatives |
Maintain microbiological integrity or product quality during manufacturing, storage & use by consumer |
Chelating Agents |
ingredients added to a product to enhance the effectiveness of the preservative (Disodium EDTA) |
Coloring Agents |
vegetable, mineral, or pigment dyes added to enhance product's appearance (not usually in skincare products but in cosmetics) ; |
; ; Fragrance |
complex blends of many essential oils and other compounds to create unique scents |
Hypoallergenic |
product is less likely to provoke an allergic reaction (no color, no fragrance, no dyes) |
Antibacterial |
destroys bacteria that can cause problems such as scne or other infections; such as: preservatives, Benzoyl Peroxide, Salicylic Acid, Hydrogen Peroide, Azelaic Acid, Camphor, Sulfur, Menthol ; and botanicals such as: tea tree oil, lavendar oil, etc. ; |
pH Adjustors |
used to adjust the product pH to a desired level ; such as: citric acid, malic acid, sodium hydroxide, triethanol amine |
Comedogenicity |
tendency to clog |
Comedogenic |
ingredients likely to lock or clog pores and contribute to pimples |
Antioxidants |
prevent skin inflammation ; damage due to free radicals Vitamin C derivitives (Ascorbic Acid) - Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Palmitate Vitamin A dreivitive - Tretinoin (Retin-A) Vitamin E derivative - Ticopherol (Vitamin E Acetate) and Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA) Highly unstable products ; must be protected from air, heat ; light by manufacturing and storing under specific conditions |
Free Radicals; |
chemically unstable molecules, caused by environmental pollutants ; UV exposure |
Alpha Lipoic Acid |
helps aging cells increase energy production, provide anti-oxidant, anti-imflammatory benefits, enhances cell's ability to repair damage pioneered by Dr. Perricone |
Co-enzyme Q-10 |
CoQ10 (Ubiquinone) Powerful anti-oxidant occuring naturally in human cells. Aids in production of cellular energy As an ingredient, it aids in circulaion, stimulates immune system, increases issue oxygenation and improves appearance of aging |
Silicones |
ingredients derived from a silicone base- unlike petrolatum derivitieves, they are free of contaminants and environmentally friendly, act by laying a mesh-like pattern of waterproof molecules over the skin, allowing oxygen to penetrate, keeping water inside, enhances barrieer properties w/o being comedogenic or leaving a film |
Cyclomethicone |
non-comedogenic emollient that gives a silky feel
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Dimethicone |
Gives products lubricity, or "slip" |
Dimethicone copolyol |
makes products feel soft, esp. sunscreens |
Hydroxy Acids |
smooth, soften, brighten appearance, remove blemishes & hyperpigmentation by speeding up exfoliation of the surface of the stratum corneum
organic acids extracted from a variety of natural sources including: fruits - Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid milk - Lactic Acids |
Alpha Hydroxy Acid |
(AHA) Glycolic and Lactid Acids carboxyl group located on the 1st carbon atom of organic acid chain |
Beta Hydroxy Acid |
(BHA) Salicylic Acid carboxyl group located on the 2nd carbon atom of the organic acid chain |
Poly Hydroxy Acid |
Malic Acid several carboxyl groups in the same chain |
Enzymes |
designed to dissove Keratin proteins on the surface of skin, resulting in exfoliation nd sofet, smoother skin |
Kinetin |
essential growth factor that prevents premature aging and partially reverses damage due to UV exposure |
Vitamins |
antioxidant Vitamins A, C, E deliver variety of benefits to the skin B1 (Thiamine) -helps heal tissue B5 (Panthenol or Pantothenic Acid) - strengthens skin, promotes healing of cuts & flexibility of scar tissue Vitamin K (incl Phylloquinone) - ability to clot blood & many skin functions Vitamin D (Calciferol) - can get from sun
**less than .5%, you should question effectiveness of product |
Lightners |
products used to bleach or lighten areas of hyperpigmentation *work by blocking melanin production by melanocytes in skin, taking months of continued used to deliveer effect
: Hydroquinone, Vitamin C, Bearberry Extract, Licorice Root, Yeast Extract, Hydroxy Acids (Lactic), Kojic Acid, Citrus Unshiu, Azelaic Acid, Rice Extract, Aspergillus Ferment, Grapefruit Extract, Paper Mulberry, Mitracarpus Scaber, Mumex (Yellow Dock), Rosmarinus Officinalis, Green TEa Extract, Yohimbe Bark
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Cosmetics |
"articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on or introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or as part there of for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance and articles intended for use as a component of any such articles; except soap." |