VN — Feline & Canine Declaw Surgery

1. Declaw: The Disarticulation Method This procedure involves the delicate disconnection of all the tiny ligaments holding the third bone in place. The entire third bone is removed in its entirety. What to Expect/Possible Complications • Because the entire third bone (P3) is removed, there is a zero possibility of the claw growing back; however, the cut ligaments allow for a subtle drop in the way the foot is held. Most owners do not notice this change in posture. • Usually the feet are washed and the nails are left long. Wrap the feet to prevent them getting dirty in between washing and surgery. • The nerve block may be applied now. Then the tourniquet. • The helper may or may not hold the foot up for the vet. • Most commonly the vet will use Allis Forceps to hold the nail while they dissect the nail. Most vets use a #15 scalpel blade. (Common type is #10.) They will often use one blade for each foot as they dull quickly. • Make sure to count the nails so none get missed. (Make sure you know if the cat is polydactyl.) • When the nails are removed the vet will either use tissue glue to close the incisions or dissolving sutures or may not use any sutures (leaves incision open). • Then the tourniquet is removed - massage the leg and switch to the other leg. • Afterwards the feet will often be bandaged. One method is to bandage tightly but to cut them down a little before going home at night and hope the cat gets them off before the next morning. May risk the cat flicking his sore paws around. • Supplies: Drape, Allis forceps (or something similar), 2 - #15 scalpel blades, scalpel handle, tourniquet, gauze 2x2's, lidocaine, glue or suture, bandage material. • Two nights in the hospital are required for this procedure (one night with bandages and one without). • Some spotting of blood is normal from the toes during the first few days at home (beware if white carpeting is present). • Shredded paper or pelleted recycled newspaper litter is recommended for 10 days after surgery. Conventional clay or sand litters can impact inside the tiny incisions and cause infections. • Pain medication is a good idea, especially for larger or older cats. The amount of weight carried on the feet (the size of the cat) is the biggest factor in post-operative pain. The use of the Fentanyl Patch is recommended for post-operative pain after declawing for cats over 8 pounds or for any cat who appears to be experiencing significant discomfort.

This is probably the most common method used by veterinarians to declaw cats as it is associated with the fastest surgery time. It involves the use of a sterile nail trimmer to cut through the bone of the third digit of the toe. The cat loses the part of the bone from which the claw grows. The incision is either sewn closed with suture material or closed with surgical glue or left open (unsutured). What to Expect/Possible Complications • Two nights in the hospital are required for this procedure (one night with bandages and one without). • Some spotting of blood is normal from the toes during the first few days at home. • Shredded paper for litter is recommended for 10 days after surgery. • Pain medication may be used especially for larger or older cats. • Occasionally, not enough of the third bone is removed and the claw regrows. When this occurs, infection is generally inevitable and the remaining bone must be remove

Recently, the laser declaw has received a great deal of attention. In this surgery, a laser rather than a scalpel blade is used to disarticulate the third toe bone. Advantages of laser surgery include virtually no bleeding (during surgery or afterwards), less post-operative pain, and in many cases, no bandages. More and more clinics are offering this form of surgery. It is less painful, has less hemorrhage, less tissue swelling, is more precise, reduces infection and allows for quicker healing and the return to normal for the pet.

Declawing has probably become the most controversial of all the elective surgical procedures commonly performed by veterinarians. While it is normal for cats to scratch things (to mark territory as well as to condition their claws) this behavior can destroy the bond between an owner and pet cat. Cats, especially adolescent cats, have a tendency to play rough, scratching their owners in play, sometimes violently. The declaw surgery represents a permanent solution to these problems; however, it is popularly held that a number of adverse conditions result from declawing, and that it is a form of mutilation. Pet owners need to sort out the facts from the rumors surrounding this procedure, as well as understand all of the options involved.

Scratching is a natural behavior of cats, which makes it difficult to modify. The usual goal is to transfer the cat's scratching instinct to a scratching post; it is virtually impossible to control the desire to scratch completely. In general, this kind of training requires a great deal of time at home. The following are training tips: • Cats seem to prefer to scratch upholstery with a vertical drag to the fabric. Furniture can be up-holstered in an unaccept-able fabric and a scratching post can be swathed in an appropriate fabric (rather than the usual carpet). • Furniture can be made unacceptable by using plastic or even aluminum foil to cover the target pieces. Spray-on anti-perspirants can be sprayed on the furniture as a repellent. • Treats or catnip can be used to attract the cat to the scratching post. • Cats can be punished for furniture scratching attempts, but it is important that the cat not connect the punishment with the person administering it, other wise the cat will simply learn not to scratch while that person is watching. Yelling, spank-ing, or shaking a can with pennies in it is too directly associated with the person rather than the act of scrat-ching. A water squirt bottle is better but only if the cat does not see where the squirt comes from. Booby traps can be set up using balloons. If mouse traps are used, it is vital that they be turned upside-down so that the cat cannot possibly catch a foot in the trap. Stacked traps can be set up so that they pop upward when tripped, making a surprising noise. In this way, punishment can still be carried out when the owner is not at home. Many owners are not excited about putting mousetraps up against their living room furniture, upholstering in aluminum foil, or decorating sofas and chairs with balloons. It is easy to see why a surgical solution would be attractive.

MYTH #1: After declawing a cat is likely to become fearful or experience behavior changes impairing an affectionate relationship with its owner. Numerous scientific studies have been unable to document any behavior changes post-declaw. In fact, in one survey 70% of owners of declawed cats reported an improved relationship with their cat after the procedure. MYTH #2: A declawed cat cannot climb trees. Declawed cats are not as effective at climbing trees as cats with claws but declawing does not prevent tree climbing. MYTH #3: A declawed cat cannot catch prey. Declawed cats are not as effective at catching prey as cats with claws but declawing does not prevent effective hunting MYTH #4: A declawed cat has lost its ability to defend itself and should not be allowed outside. This one is actually true. Without claws, a cat has indeed lost an important part of its defense system. Perhaps declawed cats should be housed indoors only. MYTH #5: Declawed cats are more likely to bite since they can no longer claw. Declawed cats do not seem to realize they have no claws. They will continue to scratch ineffectively as if they did not know the difference. Studies have shown no increased biting tendency after declawing. MYTH #6: The post-operative period involves tremendous pain. The declawed cat will indeed have sore feet after surgery. The larger the cat, the more the discomfort and reluctance to bear weight. Pain relievers are often prescribed. However, this recovery period should not last longer than a week or so. Healing should be complete by 2 weeks. MYTH #7: A declawed cat will not use a litter box again. It is very important that litter not get impacted in the declaw incisions during the recovery period. Shredded paper is the usual recommendation during recovery and some cats simply will not use shredd-ed paper. The recycled newspaper litters are an excellent alternative. The only litter problem one might expect would be lack of acceptance of a new litter during the recovery period. Declawed cats do not lose their litter box instinct.

This surgical procedure is gaining popularity with owners who are concerned about the recovery period with a conventional declaw. Here, a ligament is cut on the underside of each toe to prevent grasping motions. The claws remain but the cat cannot extend them. A study that compared the long and short term complications of tendonectomy vs. those of traditional declaw. While cats who received the tendonectomy showed significantly lower pain scores immediately post operatively, both procedures showed an equal frequency of other complications (bleeding, lameness, and infection). The number of days it took for a cat to walk normally again was not different between the declawed cats and the tendonectomy cats.

Front and/or back may be removed. Often done as 2 to 3 day old puppies. Dogs that come in with loose hind dewclaws at time of neuter/spay will often have them removed at the same time. Will remove fronts upon owner request, but not mandatory except for certain breeds. Prep is mostly proximal to nail. Will use regular surgical supplies. Sutures and bandage afterwards.