Flashcards – Perms
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who started the idea of \"perms\"
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the Egyptians - sticks, hot spring's mud, then baked in the sun
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Charles Nessler
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- in 1905 he made the first permanent waving machine - using strong alkalis solution
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spiral method
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wrapping hair from the roots to ends
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croquignole method
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- wrapping hair from ends to root - this method led into pre-heated electric clamps
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\"pre-heat\" / machineless method
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- clamps that are preheated on a separate electrical unit and then placed over the hair - using alkali chemicals used
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Ralph I. Evan & Everett G. McDonough
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- who introduced the method of chemical perming - using bi-sulphides to create a curl
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Arnold F. Willatt
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created the first cold wave in 1938
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Cold Wave
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- perm that involves no machines and no chemicals that produced a heat reaction - hair wrapped around rods while a waving lotion (thioglycolic acid or its derivatives) processed the hair without heat, processed then the lotion was rinsed, and then a neutralizer was applied then rinsed
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alkaline waves
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- thioglycolic acid (or its derivatives) and ammonia - processed generally without heat & no tension - starts to process as soon its applied - pH 8.0 to 9.5 > use with caution to prevent damage to hair or skin (chemical burns)
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acid waves
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- glycerol monothioglycolate and NO ammonia - only minimal swelling so firm tension is necessary - pH 6.9 to 7.2
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endothermic perms
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the heat method of perming that involves placing a plastic cap on the client and then sitting them under a pre-heated dryer that caused the pH to gradually increase leaving the hair a healthy condition
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exothermic perms
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- self-timing and self-heating with an additive that created heat through a chemical reaction that was mixed with a perm solution - range from acidic to alkaline > depending on manufactor
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major phases of perming
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physical & chemical
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physical phase
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- wrapping hair around the perm tool - using end papers
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chemical phase
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- applying perm solution - rinsing the solution from the hair - applying neutralizer - rinsing the neutralizer from the hair
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croquigole wrapping method
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- ends to root with the hair overlapping with each revolution - hair should overlap the perm tool at least 2.5x creating an undulating wave and volume at the base
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spiral: ends-to-base wrapping method
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perm wrapping that begins at the ends and rotate under twice and then position the tool vertically before wrapping the hair around the tool in a corkscrew fashion creating a hanging curl with reduced volume at the base
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straight rod
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- perm tool that produces curls or waves that are uniformed throughout the hair strand - hair on the ends travel the same distance as the hair in the center creating a consistent curl throughout strand
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concave rod
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- perm tool that produce a smaller, tighter curl in the center than the roots and ends - the hair on both ends of the tool travel farther than the hair in the center creating a smaller tighter curl on the hair thats in the center of the tool and a wider, more spiraling pattern on the hair at the ends of the tool
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end paper techniques
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bookend, double-paper (double flat), & cushion
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bookend end paper techniques
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- one end paper folded in half - used to control shorter sections of hair when a shorter rod length is used or to wrap sections of very short hair
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double-paper (double flat) end paper technique
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- incorporates two end papers, one on the top and one on the bottom - most common end technique because it allows max control of tapered ends and avoids bunching the ends
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cushion end paper technique
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- incorporates several pieces of end papers - begins with a double-paper technique and then additional end papers are positioned on top of the strands as you wrap the tool - recommended for chemically treated and/or highly porous hair to allow even absorption of the solutions - is used primarily in alkaline waving to keep hair smooth and provide for expansion when the hair swells
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on-base
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- a one diameter base is directed 45degrees above the center of the base and wrapped so the tool sits btwn the two partings - creates move volume
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half-off base
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- a one diameter base is held at 90degrees from the center of the base and wrapped so the tool sits half-on the base and half-off the base, directly on the bottom parting - the most common tool position - creates max amount of curl from base to ends with minimum amount of stress on the hair
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underdirected
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- base size of at least 1.5 diameter and the tool is positioned in the lower half of the base to achieve moderate base lift - used in the perimeter areas where closeness is desired
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off-base
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- a base is held at 45degrees below the center of the base and is wrapped so that the tool sits completely off the base - creates minim. volume with curl concentrated at the mid shaft and ends - any base size can be used to create this tool position
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rectangle / 9block pattern
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- consist mostly of rectangle shapes throughout pattern - basic direction is downward - most basic pattern
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bricklay pattern
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- tools are in a staggered configuration - alternating tool position row-to-row - pattern can move in any direction - chosen to avoid splits in the design
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spiral bricklay pattern
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- horizontal rows that are subdivided in a staggered bricklay pattern - tools are positioned vertically with square bases
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double-halo pattern
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- features a center part with two rows of perm rods that follow the curvature of the head
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oblong pattern
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- positions rods within oblongs using diagonal partings - creates a strong wave pattern
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partial perms
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- positions new texture only where it is desired - excellent for short hair
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perimeter perms
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- aka \"drop crown wrap\" - eliminate texture in the top and crown and focus on the perimeter and ends of the hair
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piggy-back perms
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- two rods are positioned along a single strand - used for longer hair to ensure complete saturation of chemicals - rods are wrapped in alternate directions to create a continued wave pattern - can use the same diameter with each tool or can customize
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alkaline perms
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- strong perm - faster processing time - better for resistant hair - no need for heat
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acid perms
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- soft, natural curl patterns - more control due to slower processing time - gentler on the hair - better for fragile, porous, or chemically treated hair
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perm solution
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reduces disulfide bonds so hair can assume the shape of the rod
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neutralizer
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fixes, locks in, restores bonds to make the new shape of the hair permanent
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perm
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permanent waving
