Hair Color Theory – Flashcards
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Generally fall into the orange and red half of the color wheel
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Warm Colors (tones)
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Generally fall into the blues and greens half of the color wheel
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Cool Colors (Tones)
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Colors found opposite one another on the color wheel. The neutralize or cancel out one another when they are mixed together.
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Complementary Colors
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Degree of lightness or darkness
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Level
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Refers to the brightness or vividness of a color or the strength of the tone
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Intensity
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3 parts of the hair
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The cuticle, Cortex, and Medulla
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Pigment-producing cells in the hair bulb that produce small egg-shaped structures (Melanosomes).
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Melanocytes
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Egg-shapped, protein packets that surround pigmented granules (Melanin).
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Melanosomes
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Pigmented granules that becomes incorporated into the keratin protein of the cortex as the hair grows.
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Melanin
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A dense concentration of this melanin will produce very dark hair. A small population of this melanin will produce light blonde hair.
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Eumelanin (Black Pigment)
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A predominate amount of this melanin will create red hair.
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Pheomelanin (Red Pigment)
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The degree of coarseness or fineness in the hair fiber.
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Texture
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Refers to the amount of moisture the hair is able to absorb
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Porosity
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The cuticle layers are smooth, tightly packed and compact.
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Resistant Porosity
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The cuticle is slightly raised, thereby accepting color products easily.
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Average/Normal Porosity
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The cuticle is lifted or missing
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Extreme Porosity
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Are not mixed with a developer and are applied directly to the hair, depositing colors that shampoo out. (*Temporary / *Semi-permant color)
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Nonoxidative Colors
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Non-reactive, direct dyes, contain large color molecules that coat only the surface of the cuticle. Lasts from shampoo to shampoo
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Temorary Colors
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Accepted by the Foof & Drug Administration (FDA) for use in foods, drugs and cosmetics
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Certified Colors
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A chemical compound or mixture of compounds that consists of many molecules in a long chain-like structure. Found in many products, including nonoxidative and oxidative colors. Adds shine or conditioning qualities to the hair, used as thickening agent.
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Polymer
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Use direct dye process, need no mixing and the color you see in the bottle is the color that is deposited on the hair. These colors are alkaline and generally last through serveral shampoos. Leaves no line of demarcation
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Semi-Permanent
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Mixed with developer to create chemical change that has long lasting effect. Can deposit or lift (lighten natural melanin) and deposit color in single process
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Oxidative colors
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Use low volume peroxideto develope the color molecules and aid in the color processing. generally lasts 4-6 weeks
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Demi-Permanent
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mixed with hydrogen peroxide and capable pf both lifting natural pigment and depositing artificial pigment in one process
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Permanent Color
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Light pastel colors used to tone prelighted hair. Contain aniline derivates, a predisposition test required
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Toners
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Provide an even base color by filling in porous, damaged or abused areas with materials such as protein or polymers. Equalize the porousity and deposits a base color in one application.
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Fillers
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used on damaged hair and when there is aquestion as to whether or not the color will hold, such as with porous hair.
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Color Filler
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Products designed to increase the vibrancy of a color formula or to neutralize tones
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Concentrates, Intensifiers, Pigments and Drabbers
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Used to removed or diffuse melanin, create the final color result or create a new pifment on which to build the final hair coloring.
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Lighteners or Bleaches
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Lightener that can be applied to scalp, has a pH around 9, comes in two forms, Oil & Cream
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On-the-scalp lightener
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comes in powder form, when mixed with peroxide, becomes a strong lightening product., can irritate the scalp, causing blisters & burns
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Off-the-scalp lightener
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Oxidizing agents used with Demi-permanent & permanent colors, lighteners and toners. My be referred to as Catalyst or Conductor.
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Developers
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The most commonly used developer in hair coloring products. pH is between 2.5 and 4.5. Needs to be mixed with ammonia or other alkaline compounds to become active.
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Hydrogen Peroxide
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used to measure the strength of Hydrogen Peroxide and allows you todilute higher strengths to lower. Also beneficial to determine whether hydrogen peroxide that has been stored for a long time is potent
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Hydrometer
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Utilize natural products to color the hair
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Vegetable Dye
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The most common vetetable dye, in its purest form, produces reddish hightlights in the hair
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Henna
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Known as progressive dyes because the hair turns darker with each application
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Metallic Dyes
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A combination of metallic and vegetable dyes
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Compound Dyes
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Used when you want to add tone to or darken the existing color. Also known as a virgin darker technique
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Base to Ends
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Color or lightner is applied to the new growth only to match the existing color.
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Base (Retouch)
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Techniques are generally used to add depth and demension (Hightlights or lowlights) to the existing hair color
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Weaving & Slicing
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Selected strands are pulled through perforated holes in a rubber coloring cap with a crochet hook
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Cap Method
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A 2 step process that involves lightening the hair first and then recolorizing the hair to the desired tone.
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Double Process Blonde
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